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Shea Butter in a Nutshell (Infographic) Priscilla Taylor In this infographic by industry expert Priscilla Taylor, she show's why shea butter is an appealing natural ingredient for personal care products, and how shea butter is growing in popularity due to it's composition, benefits and applications.
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Silicones As A Color-Lock Aid In Rinse-Off Hair Care Products Dow Chemical - Home and Personal Care Technology for permanent hair colorants has evolved significantly over the past decade, and consumers have high expectations for these products. For this reason, specialized shampoos and conditioners have been designed specifically for hair treated with p...view more Technology for permanent hair colorants has evolved significantly over the past decade, and consumers have high expectations for these products. For this reason, specialized shampoos and conditioners have been designed specifically for hair treated with permanent colorants. view less
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Skin Barrier Function and Health George Deckner In this article industry expert George Deckner explains strategies for improving the skin barrier function in formulations which include using humectants, barrier restoring lipids, and stimulating epidermal lipid synthesis. A healthy skin barrier is criti...view more In this article industry expert George Deckner explains strategies for improving the skin barrier function in formulations which include using humectants, barrier restoring lipids, and stimulating epidermal lipid synthesis. A healthy skin barrier is critical to normal skin function and many common dermatological conditions including dry skin, sensitive skin, and atopic dermatitis (Eczema). view less
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Skin Care Formulations: Meaning Good, Doing Bad? GEMATRIA TEST LAB Modern, multifunctional cosmetic products are increasingly complex and confront the cosmetic industry with new problems in product development. UV filters, anti-oxidative ingredients and particularly basic raw materials may increase the burden of free rad...view more Modern, multifunctional cosmetic products are increasingly complex and confront the cosmetic industry with new problems in product development. UV filters, anti-oxidative ingredients and particularly basic raw materials may increase the burden of free radicals in the formulations and/or inside the skin, even though they were designed to do just the opposite. view less
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Slide Show: 9 Benefits of Niacinamide George Deckner Niacinamide is a multifunctional active whose efficacy has been substantiated in numerous peer-reviewed journals. This biologically active form of niacin (vitamin B3) has many benefits in skincare formulations. View this slide show for nine reasons niacin...view more Niacinamide is a multifunctional active whose efficacy has been substantiated in numerous peer-reviewed journals. This biologically active form of niacin (vitamin B3) has many benefits in skincare formulations. View this slide show for nine reasons niacinamide may be an important ingredient for your next formula. view less
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Society of Cosmetic Chemists Technology Showcase Highlights George Deckner George Deckner attended the 2013 Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting in December. As an expert personal care formulator, Deckner noted several interesting and useful posters during the Technology Showcase, which included scientific papers, trends,...view more George Deckner attended the 2013 Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting in December. As an expert personal care formulator, Deckner noted several interesting and useful posters during the Technology Showcase, which included scientific papers, trends, new raw materials and bio-actives. He gives his top picks in this article. view less
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Soft Focus Technology George Deckner In this article, expert author George Deckner explains the benefits of soft focus technology in anti-aging skin care. He discusses properties of a good soft focus material (high diffuse transmission and diffuser particles), Particle parameters affecting s...view more In this article, expert author George Deckner explains the benefits of soft focus technology in anti-aging skin care. He discusses properties of a good soft focus material (high diffuse transmission and diffuser particles), Particle parameters affecting soft focus (refractive index, concentration, porosity, particle morphology, etc), and recommended materials. view less
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Solubilizing Oils into Water George Deckner Expert personal care formulator George Deckner provides this guide for solubilizing oils into water. Topics covered include micellar dispersions, formulation tips and recommended solubilizers.
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Sopharcos Aim Sopharcos The activity of "Sopharcos" is advising companies in the encapsulation of their active ingredients to be stabilized and/or being transported into the skin more efficiently. In addition, “Sopharcos” is developing customer-designed vesicles and encapsulatin...view more The activity of "Sopharcos" is advising companies in the encapsulation of their active ingredients to be stabilized and/or being transported into the skin more efficiently. In addition, “Sopharcos” is developing customer-designed vesicles and encapsulating active ingredients for pharmacy and cosmetics. view less
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Status Update: Microbeads (Infographic) Priscilla Taylor This infographic by industry expert Priscilla Taylor provides a status update regarding microbeads. In December 2015 the United States passed legislation banning the use of microbeads in personal care products. Priscilla outlines what's happening in the U...view more This infographic by industry expert Priscilla Taylor provides a status update regarding microbeads. In December 2015 the United States passed legislation banning the use of microbeads in personal care products. Priscilla outlines what's happening in the U.S as well as other parts of the world concerning these infamous exfoliants. view less
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Substantiating Product Claims, Pt 1 – The Essentials Arun Nandagiri This article, by industry expert Arun Nandagiri, discusses the importance of powerful product claims made in this competitive environment. He addresses the definition of a product claim (positive aspect of a product's performance or benefit), the differen...view more This article, by industry expert Arun Nandagiri, discusses the importance of powerful product claims made in this competitive environment. He addresses the definition of a product claim (positive aspect of a product's performance or benefit), the difference between product features and product benefits, drug vs. cosmetic claims and the four basic elements of a good claim package (good technical rationale, good instrumental data, statistical differences between test and control samples and recognizable benefits). view less
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Substantiating Product Claims, Pt 2 – The Essentials Arun Nandagiri Expert author Arun Nandagiri discusses four key components to substantiating claims in this second part of the two-article series. The main topics covered are technical rationale, instrumental data and clinical data.
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Sunjin Newsletter: EPU40: Talc Free PREMIUM Make Up Solution Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) Sunjin Newsletter EPU40 information on a talc free premium make up solution.
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Sunjin Newsletter: Effective UVA and UVB Protection from TiO2 UV Filter Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) This is the Sunjin Newsletter with information on effective UVA and UVB protection from TiO2 UV filter.
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Sustainability Challenges Drive Innovation in Technical Community Priscilla Taylor A key take-away from a new study released by UL Environment, entitled “The Sustainable Edge,” is that sustainability can lead to technological innovation. In this expert commentary from Priscilla Taylor, she discusses the incredible challenges and opportu...view more A key take-away from a new study released by UL Environment, entitled “The Sustainable Edge,” is that sustainability can lead to technological innovation. In this expert commentary from Priscilla Taylor, she discusses the incredible challenges and opportunities that developing against sustainability criteria can present, as well as the consumer demand that drives these innovations in the personal care market. view less
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TARGET GROUP TEENAGERS – COSMETIC TRENDS FOR THE INTERNET GENERATION SÖFW/SOFW Current market studies show that today’s teenagers have considerable financial means at their disposal. From very early on, they decide for themselves what they want to spend their money on. But it is not only their spending power that makes this target g...view more Current market studies show that today’s teenagers have considerable financial means at their disposal. From very early on, they decide for themselves what they want to spend their money on. But it is not only their spending power that makes this target group interesting. Surveys reveal that the most important phase for brand imprinting already starts at adolescence; and we all know it is easier to gain a new consumer than it is to »re-educate« a faithful consumer of the competition. view less
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TAURATE COPOLYMERS – ACCESS TO NEW SENSORY PROFILES IN COSMETICS APPLICATIONS SÖFW/SOFW Today, the term »wellness« has actually become a real buzzword and covers a whole range of relaxation techniques and holistic regeneration exercises. There are many traditional wellness therapies such as yoga, ayurveda, Kneipp cures, the Finnish sauna and...view more Today, the term »wellness« has actually become a real buzzword and covers a whole range of relaxation techniques and holistic regeneration exercises. There are many traditional wellness therapies such as yoga, ayurveda, Kneipp cures, the Finnish sauna and numerous others. More modern forms of these relaxation techniques include thallasso, spa treatments, aromatherapy and exercise trends such as walking. view less
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TEA TREE OIL COMPLEXATION WITH CYCLODEXTRIN SÖFW/SOFW Australian tea tree oil features a broad range of antimicrobial effects. How - ever, the oil is volatile, has a strong fragrance and ages quickly due to auto-oxidation, generating compounds that irritate the skin and are allergenic. As a result, it used t...view more Australian tea tree oil features a broad range of antimicrobial effects. How - ever, the oil is volatile, has a strong fragrance and ages quickly due to auto-oxidation, generating compounds that irritate the skin and are allergenic. As a result, it used to be impossible to exploit this essential oil's entire property range. Reversible molecular inclusion in cyclodextrin solves this problem, as it effectively protects the tea tree oil from evaporation and oxidation. It also improves the oil's pro view less
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TEXTILES AND HEALTH – IV HEALTH AND TEXTILE INTERNATIONAL MEETING IN BIELLA, ITALY SÖFW/SOFW Europe has an urgent necessity to boost research and innovation for future competitiveness to help meet society’s needs in terms of food, health textiles and materials in close cooperation with all stakeholders. Thus EU Commission proposed 4-pronged strat...view more Europe has an urgent necessity to boost research and innovation for future competitiveness to help meet society’s needs in terms of food, health textiles and materials in close cooperation with all stakeholders. Thus EU Commission proposed 4-pronged strategy: a) creating a market for innovative products and services, b) providing the resources for R&D and innovation, c) improving structural mobility and d) fostering a positive attitude to entrepreneurship. view less
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THE BENEFIT OF USING SYNERGISTIC MIXTURES OF PRESERVATIVES SÖFW/SOFW The patents DE 4026756 (1) and US 5670160 (2) describe the synergistic mixture of different organic acids in combination with different alcohols and poly(hexamethylene biguanide) salts. This paper scrutinizes the advantage of a commercially available mixt...view more The patents DE 4026756 (1) and US 5670160 (2) describe the synergistic mixture of different organic acids in combination with different alcohols and poly(hexamethylene biguanide) salts. This paper scrutinizes the advantage of a commercially available mixture using this combination for the preservation of cosmetics and toiletries. view less
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THE CELLULITE – AETIOLOGY AND TREATMENT SÖFW/SOFW Cellulite is a problem of complex nature, manifesting by irregular skin contours and reflecting a variety of conditions introduced in the scientific literature as adiposis edematosa or gynoid lipodystrophy (1,2). According to the scientific literature the...view more Cellulite is a problem of complex nature, manifesting by irregular skin contours and reflecting a variety of conditions introduced in the scientific literature as adiposis edematosa or gynoid lipodystrophy (1,2). According to the scientific literature the range of symptoms characterising cellulite includes disturbed fat metabolism, fluid accumulation, microcirculatory breakdown as well as alteration in the structure of dermal collagen and elastic fibres (3). view less
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THE CRUCIAL ROLE OF METALLOPROTEINASE INHIBITORS AND REGENERATING ANTIOXIDANTS ... SÖFW/SOFW The Crucial Role of Metalloproteinase Inhibitors and Regenerating Antioxidants in the Age-Related Alterations of the Skin Aging is a complex process characterized by morphological and functional changes in the skin. Skin aging is influenced by different ...view more The Crucial Role of Metalloproteinase Inhibitors and Regenerating Antioxidants in the Age-Related Alterations of the Skin Aging is a complex process characterized by morphological and functional changes in the skin. Skin aging is influenced by different factors including genetics (chronological aging) and environmental irritants such as UV-light exposure (photoaging). Appearance of wrinkles and loss of elasticity and firmness of the skin are among the main signs of skin aging. Such ... view less
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THE CYCLIC POLYOL MYO-INOSITOL AS WATER ORGANIZER SÖFW/SOFW The world of short-chain hydrotropes used in cosmetic formulations is rather static. Glycerol, sorbitol and propylene glycol share the »stage« of molecules performing water coordination (hydrotropes), according to the variable market supply, vegetal oils ...view more The world of short-chain hydrotropes used in cosmetic formulations is rather static. Glycerol, sorbitol and propylene glycol share the »stage« of molecules performing water coordination (hydrotropes), according to the variable market supply, vegetal oils stocks and the building of new plants for chemical synthesis. In recent times, also butylene glycol has been intensively adopted, mainly for its supporting action to the activity of preservatives. view less
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THE DETERMINATION OF ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY OF ESSENTIAL OILS SÖFW/SOFW Essential oils are mixtures of volatile compounds produced in small quantities as secondary metabolites by many varieties of spices and aromatic plants. About 3000 essential oils are known, of which around 300 are commercially relevant and widely used in ...view more Essential oils are mixtures of volatile compounds produced in small quantities as secondary metabolites by many varieties of spices and aromatic plants. About 3000 essential oils are known, of which around 300 are commercially relevant and widely used in the perfume and cosmetic industries as important aroma additives. They can comprise more than one hundred individual components (1). view less
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THE FATAL EFFECT OF SELF-TANNING AGENTS DURING UV IRRADIATION SÖFW/SOFW Using the recently developed RSF (Radical Skin Protection Factor) method, the radical induction capacity of self tanning agents as dihydroxyacetone (DHA) was investigated. The reaction of the reducing sugars used in self tanning products with amino acids ...view more Using the recently developed RSF (Radical Skin Protection Factor) method, the radical induction capacity of self tanning agents as dihydroxyacetone (DHA) was investigated. The reaction of the reducing sugars used in self tanning products with amino acids in the skin (Maillard reaction) leads to the formation of Amadori- products that generate free radicals during UV irradiation. view less
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THE FORMULATION OF A DISTINCTIVE SKIN CARE PRODUCT SÖFW/SOFW It is our concern to identify the trends in the cosmetic market and to understand this evolution so as to be in a position to create distinctive, innovative skin care products. Today’s consumers have a new emotion-based approach to buying. Even if product...view more It is our concern to identify the trends in the cosmetic market and to understand this evolution so as to be in a position to create distinctive, innovative skin care products. Today’s consumers have a new emotion-based approach to buying. Even if product performance is an integral part of modern skin care products, distinctive, sensory qualities, real pleasure in using the product and fewer chemical ingredients are key factors for product success. view less
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THE GREEN CHEMISTRY ACTIVITY OF AN ANTIOXIDANT NETWORK MELATONIN-RICH SÖFW/SOFW The association of natural compounds*: Vitamin E, selenium, melatonin, beta-Carotene and beta-Glucan constitute a network of antioxidants that act in synergy to protect and stimulate nerve cells.
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THE IMPORTANCE OF AMINO ACID APPLICATION TO SKIN ORIGIN, PERMEATION AND EFFECTS FOR SKIN.. SÖFW/SOFW In adults weighting 65 kg, skin covers about 2 m2 of the total body surface and weighs about 10 kg (16% of the body weight). It is the largest organ of the human body. The skin plays a vital role in protecting the living body form external insults such as...view more In adults weighting 65 kg, skin covers about 2 m2 of the total body surface and weighs about 10 kg (16% of the body weight). It is the largest organ of the human body. The skin plays a vital role in protecting the living body form external insults such as ultraviolet radiation, microbial contamination, etc. view less
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THE IMPORTANT ROLE OF MELANIN AS PROTECTOR AGAINST FREE RADICALS IN SKIN SÖFW/SOFW Throughout the body, melanin is a homogenous biological polymer containing a population of intrinsic, semiquinone – like radicals. Additional extrinsic free radicals are reversibly photo-generated by UV and visible light. Melanin is the only known biopoly...view more Throughout the body, melanin is a homogenous biological polymer containing a population of intrinsic, semiquinone – like radicals. Additional extrinsic free radicals are reversibly photo-generated by UV and visible light. Melanin is the only known biopolymer containing stable free radicals. Melanin photochemistry, particularly the formation and decay of extrinsic radicals, has been the subject of numerous electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy studies. view less
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THE LATEST ADVANCES IN SKIN OPTICAL CLEARING SÖFW/SOFW The main limitations for skin and subcutaneous tissue optical imaging and spectroscopy are the low penetration depth of light and/or low image contrast, because of high tissue scattering in skin. The following optical modalities are suffering strongly: Do...view more The main limitations for skin and subcutaneous tissue optical imaging and spectroscopy are the low penetration depth of light and/or low image contrast, because of high tissue scattering in skin. The following optical modalities are suffering strongly: Doppler and speckle blood flow monitoring, optical coherence tomography (OCT), confocal microscopy, SHG imaging, multi-photon spectroscopy, polarization imaging, and Raman spectroscopy. view less
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THE LATEST ADVANCES IN SKIN OPTICAL CLEARING SÖFW/SOFW The main limitations for skin and subcutaneous tissue optical imaging and spectroscopy are the low penetration depth of light and/or low image contrast, because of high tissue scattering in skin. The following optical modalities are suffering strongly: Do...view more The main limitations for skin and subcutaneous tissue optical imaging and spectroscopy are the low penetration depth of light and/or low image contrast, because of high tissue scattering in skin. The following optical modalities are suffering strongly: Doppler and speckle blood flow monitoring, optical coherence tomography (OCT), confocal microscopy, SHG imaging, multi-photon spectroscopy, polarization imaging, and Raman spectroscopy. view less
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THE MIRACLE QUESTION: A NEW APPROACH TO THE MAZE OF OIL PHASES SÖFW/SOFW The selection and composition of the lipid phase is a key issue in the formulation technique of an emulsion. However, many related questions arise. These concern the way we should deal with the selection of ingredients. This paper will try and find the wa...view more The selection and composition of the lipid phase is a key issue in the formulation technique of an emulsion. However, many related questions arise. These concern the way we should deal with the selection of ingredients. This paper will try and find the way in the maze of the oily phases, possibly without bad falls. In this specific case, the construction criteria called formulationaround- one-substance is adopted and the ingredient Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate is tested. view less
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THE OBTAINING OF COSMETIC PREPARATIONS BASED ON LIPOPROTEIN COMPOUNDS EXTRACTED FROM... SÖFW/SOFW It was discovered a new complex of lipoproteins (BAS) extracted from insects tissue at certain development stages, with keratolytic action. Those were obtained by specific technologies involving original apparatus and methods. The insects are grown in spe...view more It was discovered a new complex of lipoproteins (BAS) extracted from insects tissue at certain development stages, with keratolytic action. Those were obtained by specific technologies involving original apparatus and methods. The insects are grown in special laboratories on artificial media. The cosmetic creams on the basis of the lipoprotein complex extracted from insects exhibit abilities of restoring the tissues injured by keratinization. Present work shows the results obtained... view less
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THE RELEVANCE OF ZINC FOR SKIN AND HAIR CARE SÖFW/SOFW As a co-factor zinc is occuring in all 6 main classes of enzymes: 1. Oxidoreductases, which transfer hydrogen or electrones from one ot another substrate. 2. Transferases They are characterized by their ability to transfer molecule groups to another subst...view more As a co-factor zinc is occuring in all 6 main classes of enzymes: 1. Oxidoreductases, which transfer hydrogen or electrones from one ot another substrate. 2. Transferases They are characterized by their ability to transfer molecule groups to another substrate. 3. Hydrolases They are divided into C-O-hydrolyses and C-N-hydrolyses. According to the kind of binding they are able to hydrolyse. 4. Lyases They may catalyse the split of different bindings. 5. Isomerases They will catalyse... view less
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THE ROOTS OF NATURAL COSMETICS AND ITS MODERN INTERPRETATION SÖFW/SOFW One of the key driving forces behind the dynamic cosmetic and toiletries market is the continuously growing demand for products of natural and organic origins. The large number of investment activities in the natural cosmetic sector by the leading global ...view more One of the key driving forces behind the dynamic cosmetic and toiletries market is the continuously growing demand for products of natural and organic origins. The large number of investment activities in the natural cosmetic sector by the leading global players shows the transition of their attitude toward this formerly strategic and currently highly potential segment. The natural and organic cosmetics are en vogue. view less
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THE TOUCH OF SEDUCTION SÖFW/SOFW Pulse volume amplitude, skin temperature, heart rhythm and other psycho-physiological parameters can give an emotional assessment of consumer response to cosmetics products. Thanks to this new methodology it will be possible to answer the claims for welln...view more Pulse volume amplitude, skin temperature, heart rhythm and other psycho-physiological parameters can give an emotional assessment of consumer response to cosmetics products. Thanks to this new methodology it will be possible to answer the claims for wellness effects or seduction effects as demonstrated here in the setting of cosmetics industry.  view less
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TRANSPARENT BAR SOAP COMPOSITION: TRADITIONAL PROCESSES AND NEW DEVELOPMENTS SÖFW/SOFW The present development relates to a transparent bar soap composition comprising a sodium salt of a fatty acid or a mixed sodium/potassium salt of a fatty acid, at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from the group consisting of compounds represented...view more The present development relates to a transparent bar soap composition comprising a sodium salt of a fatty acid or a mixed sodium/potassium salt of a fatty acid, at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from the group consisting of compounds represented by formulas (A) to (C), a nonionic surfactant, and at least one glycerine derivative.  view less
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TREATMENT AGAINST BLOOD, SUCKING INSECTS WITHOUT SKIN IRRITATION SÖFW/SOFW In recent times the increasing incidence of head lice infestations (Pediculus humanus capitis) has resulted in a significant impact on social relationships in children's playgrounds and schoolyards and has affected family activities. As the number of lice...view more In recent times the increasing incidence of head lice infestations (Pediculus humanus capitis) has resulted in a significant impact on social relationships in children's playgrounds and schoolyards and has affected family activities. As the number of lice infected children has increased, some of the anti-louse products on the German and European markets show reduced activity, and other insecticide-containing products are not effective at all, or provoke painful skin sensations. view less
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TRENDS AND INNOVATIONS IN COLOUR COSMETICS SÖFW/SOFW The article consists of a market situation analysis, as well as of an examination of trends and innovations in colour cosmetics.
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TRIGGERED RELEASE BY SKIN PH – NOVEL ENCAPSULATION TECHNOLOGY FOR THE DELIVERY OF PERSONAL SÖFW/SOFW High performance cosmetic products rely on the presence of active ingredients, which display a specific biological function. Thus commonly used active ingredients like vitamins, ceramides, or plant extracts have beneficial effects such as antioxidation, a...view more High performance cosmetic products rely on the presence of active ingredients, which display a specific biological function. Thus commonly used active ingredients like vitamins, ceramides, or plant extracts have beneficial effects such as antioxidation, antiirritation, barrier strengthening or cellular regeneration. view less
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TYPOLOGY OF COSMETIC BEHAVIOUR OF FRENCH WOMEN FROM PARIS AREA SÖFW/SOFW In order to meet expectations of marketing services and product developers, many surveys have focused on consumers’ behaviour in order to identify »typical profiles« of consumers. The aim of this analysis was to identify groups of individuals with a parti...view more In order to meet expectations of marketing services and product developers, many surveys have focused on consumers’ behaviour in order to identify »typical profiles« of consumers. The aim of this analysis was to identify groups of individuals with a particular type of behaviour with regards to cosmetic products and aesthetics, using an appropriate analysis strategy. The study was conducted on 654 women from Paris area. A questionnaire on lifestyle and cosmetic habits was submitted to each woman. view less
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Tackling the Clear, Sulfate-Free Formulation Challenge Priscilla Taylor Expert author Priscilla Taylor discusses the challenge of formulating products that must meet certain 'free-of' requirements. 'Sulfate-free' products have become widely popular, but it can be difficult to maintain clarity and achieve viscosity targets wit...view more Expert author Priscilla Taylor discusses the challenge of formulating products that must meet certain 'free-of' requirements. 'Sulfate-free' products have become widely popular, but it can be difficult to maintain clarity and achieve viscosity targets without polymeric thickeners. She also addresses gums, carbomers, cellulose derivatives, Sodium Chloride, Betaines, Hydroxysultaines, Alkanolamides and Amine Oxides, foam boosters and viscosifiers. view less
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Technical Assessment of Lifecel All-in-One Anti Aging Cream George Deckner Article includes analysis of the current top-rated anti-aging skin care product, Lifecel All-in-One Anti Aging Cream. Expert personal care formulator George Deckner lists ingredients, gives a technical overview, and discusses the product's actives and emu...view more Article includes analysis of the current top-rated anti-aging skin care product, Lifecel All-in-One Anti Aging Cream. Expert personal care formulator George Deckner lists ingredients, gives a technical overview, and discusses the product's actives and emulsifying system. view less
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Technology Highlights from NYSCC Supplier's Day 2016 George Deckner NYSCC Supplier’s Day 2016 was held at the New Jersey Convention and Expo Center in Edison New Jersey. The show is the largest personal care ingredient trade show in the US and this year’s show had 378 global exhibitors with over 7,000 registered attendees...view more NYSCC Supplier’s Day 2016 was held at the New Jersey Convention and Expo Center in Edison New Jersey. The show is the largest personal care ingredient trade show in the US and this year’s show had 378 global exhibitors with over 7,000 registered attendees. In this article, I'll give you highlights of some of my favorite excipient and active technologies that were presented. view less
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Tests for Predicting Emulsion / Suspension Stability George Deckner This industry expert article covers tests for emulsion or suspension stability. Includes information on critical factors, such as density differences between the oil/water phase, viscosity of the product (yield value- zero shear viscosity) and the particl...view more This industry expert article covers tests for emulsion or suspension stability. Includes information on critical factors, such as density differences between the oil/water phase, viscosity of the product (yield value- zero shear viscosity) and the particle size of the dispersed phase. Simple, useful emulsion stability tests, as well as instrumental methods for testing are covered. view less
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The Benefits of Niacinamide George Deckner Get the information you need about using niacinamide, the biologically active form of niacin (vitamin B3), in your formulations. Includes an overview of the benefits of topical niacinamide, including improved skin barrier function, anti-aging, moisturizat...view more Get the information you need about using niacinamide, the biologically active form of niacin (vitamin B3), in your formulations. Includes an overview of the benefits of topical niacinamide, including improved skin barrier function, anti-aging, moisturization and more. view less
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The Future of Household Products: Consumerism in a Global Context Mintel International Explore cultural context, provenance and consumer preference for a wide range of personal care and cleaners product categories and trends. This report from Mintel highlights factors like saving time and effort, universal access to information, the fusion ...view more Explore cultural context, provenance and consumer preference for a wide range of personal care and cleaners product categories and trends. This report from Mintel highlights factors like saving time and effort, universal access to information, the fusion of cultures and lifestyles and long-term market expansion. view less
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The Influence of Surfactant Composition and a Cationic Polymer on Silicone Deposition and Formulation Conditioning Performance Lubrizol This study investigates the effect of surfactant composition on silicone deposition to achieve optimal conditioning performance in shampoo formulations containing new naturally derived cationic cassia polymers.
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The Influence of the Cosmetic Formulation on the Radical Status of Skin GEMATRIA TEST LAB All skin treatments that influence the hydration degree of the skin and/or its barrier function may have a measurable influence on the radical generation. The highest effect was measured, when a solution of glycerine and water (50:50, w/w) was applied on ...view more All skin treatments that influence the hydration degree of the skin and/or its barrier function may have a measurable influence on the radical generation. The highest effect was measured, when a solution of glycerine and water (50:50, w/w) was applied on the skin. The amount of free radicals compared to untreated skin was nearly doubled. Thus, there are no placebos, from a dermatological viewpoint. Beyond the extinction characteristics of UV filters, their distribution inside a cosmetic formulation as well as their distribution pattern on the skin’s surface are the most important parameters that drive the efficacy of sunscreens. The more homogeneous is the film of UV filters on the skin, the higher will be the protective effect. The three model formulations, each exemplary for common sunscreen sprays, lotions, and creams, have very different performance on the skin. view less
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The Multifactorial Influences on the Radical Status of Skin GEMATRIA TEST LAB Since radical reactions in biological systems are among the most important factors that lead to premature skin ageing and severe pathologies, many strategies have been attempt to prevent free radical damage. Free radical reactions are ubiquitous in biolog...view more Since radical reactions in biological systems are among the most important factors that lead to premature skin ageing and severe pathologies, many strategies have been attempt to prevent free radical damage. Free radical reactions are ubiquitous in biological systems and the multiple defence systems in all living organisms surely testify the evolutionary importance of these reactions. view less
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The Radical Skin Factor (RSF) Distinguishes Between Cosmetic Formulations Acting as Radical Protector or Booster GEMATRIA TEST LAB The free radical status of the skin can be detected by spin probe assisted ESR spectroscopy which enables the quantification of radical processes in the skin. These measurements are the basis for the evaluation of cosmetical and pharmacological skin care ...view more The free radical status of the skin can be detected by spin probe assisted ESR spectroscopy which enables the quantification of radical processes in the skin. These measurements are the basis for the evaluation of cosmetical and pharmacological skin care products, as antioxidant creams as well as surface active agents with a radical boosting effect like detergents/surfactants or selftanners up to further external and internal applied substances influencing the radical process in skin. view less
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The Role of Melanin as Protector Against Free Radicals in Skin and its Role as Free Radical Indicator in Hair GEMATRIA TEST LAB Throughout the body, melanin is a homogenous biological polymer containing a population of intrinsic, semiquinone-like radicals. Additional extrinsic free radicals are reversibly photo-generated by UV and visible light. Melanin photochemistry, particularl...view more Throughout the body, melanin is a homogenous biological polymer containing a population of intrinsic, semiquinone-like radicals. Additional extrinsic free radicals are reversibly photo-generated by UV and visible light. Melanin photochemistry, particularly the formation and decay of extrinsic radicals, has been the subject of numerous electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy studies. Several melanin monomers exist, and the predominant monomer in a melanin polymer depends on its location within an organism. In skin and hair, melanin differs in content of eumelanin or pheomelanin. Its bioradical character and its susceptibility to UV irradiation makes melanin an excellent indicator for UV-related processes in both skin and hair. view less
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The role of liposomes and their future perspective Sopharcos Liposomes have been extensively studied and suggested as a vehicle for topical drug delivery systems in cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. Several factors in the modification of liposomal formulations play an important role in improving or hinderin...view more Liposomes have been extensively studied and suggested as a vehicle for topical drug delivery systems in cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. Several factors in the modification of liposomal formulations play an important role in improving or hindering the percutaneous absorption of the vesicles. To clarify the effects of different modifications of liposomes (surface charge, sterical stabilization, varying solvents, dependence on phase transition temperature) on the percutaneous absorption, we determined the penetration profiles of encapsulated components into the skin. view less
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Thermal Protectants: Helping Mend Split Ends Arun Nandagiri A market for creating products to protect consumer’s hair from the damaging effects of heat and other detrimental factors continues to grow. In this expert article, Arun Nandagiri discusses how you can mend split ends by creating a product that will prote...view more A market for creating products to protect consumer’s hair from the damaging effects of heat and other detrimental factors continues to grow. In this expert article, Arun Nandagiri discusses how you can mend split ends by creating a product that will protect hair from heat. view less
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Thickening Surfactant Based Products George Deckner Personal care industry expert George Deckner discusses the potential benefits of thickening surfactant based products. Includes optimal choices of thickeners based on the specific needs of formulations, depending on clarity, PH, ingredients to suspend, an...view more Personal care industry expert George Deckner discusses the potential benefits of thickening surfactant based products. Includes optimal choices of thickeners based on the specific needs of formulations, depending on clarity, PH, ingredients to suspend, and the types of surfactants/concentration used. He also discuses thickening technologies for surfactant based products such as salt and polymers. view less
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Top Technology from SCC 2014 George Deckner Just a few days ago, personal care industry expert George Deckner attended the SCC’s Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase. Don’t miss this collection of highlights from a 40+ year veteran formulator, including his top choices for new technolo...view more Just a few days ago, personal care industry expert George Deckner attended the SCC’s Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase. Don’t miss this collection of highlights from a 40+ year veteran formulator, including his top choices for new technology. view less
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Transdermal drug carriers: basic properties, optimization and transfer efficiency in the case of epicutaneously applied peptides Sopharcos Liposomes may not always be small enough to be absorbed into the skin. Special, composite carrying bodies called Transfersomes™ achieve this goal by virtue of their very high and self-optimizing deformability. They penetrate the skin barrier and are distr...view more Liposomes may not always be small enough to be absorbed into the skin. Special, composite carrying bodies called Transfersomes™ achieve this goal by virtue of their very high and self-optimizing deformability. They penetrate the skin barrier and are distributed throughout the whole body. This permits regio-selective drug delivery. Transfersome-associated insulin is carried across the skin with an efficacy of > 50% (and often >80%), for example. view less
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Trends in Consumer Products Mintel International What do current trends in consumer products mean for surfactant ingredient suppliers? Mintel explores the factors that drive household cleaning product purchases, market size and forecasts, key global convenience trends and more.
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USING ANTIOXIDANTS TO ENSURE THE QUALITY OF PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS SÖFW/SOFW Specialty oils such as grape seed, sweet almond and avocado oil are increasingly being formulated into cosmetics for home, professional and spa use. While these natural vegetable oils bring considerable shelf- and brand-appeal to personal care products, t...view more Specialty oils such as grape seed, sweet almond and avocado oil are increasingly being formulated into cosmetics for home, professional and spa use. While these natural vegetable oils bring considerable shelf- and brand-appeal to personal care products, they leave formulators with a significant challenge: ensuring that these oils, which can be unstable, do not oxidise and become rancid in the package. Brandowners find real value in the exotic mystique of these natural products, but they may... view less
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UV ABSORBERS – OF CONCERN ACCORDING TO REACH SÖFW/SOFW To protect human skin against UV-induced damages UV absorbers are commonly used in various sunscreen products. Due to their intended use these UV absorbers have to have certain properties for being able to fulfill the protection needs of human skin. In or...view more To protect human skin against UV-induced damages UV absorbers are commonly used in various sunscreen products. Due to their intended use these UV absorbers have to have certain properties for being able to fulfill the protection needs of human skin. In order to be efficient they should have good absorbance properties. Further, they should be easy to formulate. Besides these criteria a UV absorber should be oil-soluble (lipophilic) to ensure UV-protection during or even after swimming. view less
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UV-INDUCED PREMATURE SENESCENCE AS A MODEL TO STUDY PHOTO-AGING: A CASE STUDY WITH 1,25 DI SÖFW/SOFW Fighting senescence and the appearance of age signs is of particular interest in a cosmetic point of view. Skin is submitted to intrinsic ageing, linked to genetic characteristics of individuals (chronological ageing) and to extrinsic ageing. Extrinsic ag...view more Fighting senescence and the appearance of age signs is of particular interest in a cosmetic point of view. Skin is submitted to intrinsic ageing, linked to genetic characteristics of individuals (chronological ageing) and to extrinsic ageing. Extrinsic ageing is linked to environmental exposure to stress which is mainly represented by UV-exposure. UV are responsible for the appearance of the ageing, by inducing DNA damage, radical oxygen species production, and matrix remodeling. view less
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UVA PROTECTION ASSESSMENT OF SUNSCREENS: A CRITICAL REVIEW ON THE UVA-TO-UVB ABSORBANCE... SÖFW/SOFW Since the early 90ies the UVA-to-UVB absorbance ratio has been discussed as an in vitro indicator to quantify the UVA protection performance of sunscreens. In the UK it has become known as the labelling basis for the UVA star rating system (1). The UVA-to...view more Since the early 90ies the UVA-to-UVB absorbance ratio has been discussed as an in vitro indicator to quantify the UVA protection performance of sunscreens. In the UK it has become known as the labelling basis for the UVA star rating system (1). The UVA-to-UVB ratio is derived from the absorbanceprofile of a sunscreen film. Technically spoken it displays the mean absorbance value of all measuring points in the UVA[320-400nm] divided by the mean absorbancevalue of all measuring points in the... view less
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UVA, A MAIN CONCERN IN SUN DAMAGE: PROTECTION FROM THE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE WITH PHYTOENE... SÖFW/SOFW UVA, A Main Concern in Sun Damage: Protection from the Inside and Outside with Phytoene, Phytofluene, the Colorless Carotenoids and more. The UV rays of the sun irradiation can be resulting in generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals ...view more UVA, A Main Concern in Sun Damage: Protection from the Inside and Outside with Phytoene, Phytofluene, the Colorless Carotenoids and more. The UV rays of the sun irradiation can be resulting in generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals which are leading to damage to DNA, lipid peroxidation, inflammation, collagen degradation and more, resulting in pre-mature skin aging and possibly also skin cancer. view less
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Understanding Deposition from Rinse Off Products George Deckner Personal Care expert George Deckner explains deposition from rinse off products in this exclusive article. Article presents information on factors controlling coacervate precipitation and deposition, including polymers and guar. Also covered are surfactan...view more Personal Care expert George Deckner explains deposition from rinse off products in this exclusive article. Article presents information on factors controlling coacervate precipitation and deposition, including polymers and guar. Also covered are surfactants, particles and other factors. view less
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Understanding Polarity George Deckner Personal Care expert, George Deckner explains the importance of polarity which is the unequal sharing of electrons between atoms in a molecule in which one has larger electronegativity than another, resulting in a dipole or "bent" structure. He discusses ...view more Personal Care expert, George Deckner explains the importance of polarity which is the unequal sharing of electrons between atoms in a molecule in which one has larger electronegativity than another, resulting in a dipole or "bent" structure. He discusses how understanding polarity has helped him solve essential formulation problems over the years. Polarity can affect solubility, wetting, dispersability, SPF, sunscreen stability, skin penetration, formulation stability, and emulsification. view less
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Use of Phospholipids in Personal Care Products George Deckner Personal Care expert George Deckner discusses the use of phospholipids in today's products. Phospholipids valuable part of the any formulator’s toolbox. These fatty acids have benefits that include moisturizing, emulsifying and solubilizing properties. Tw...view more Personal Care expert George Deckner discusses the use of phospholipids in today's products. Phospholipids valuable part of the any formulator’s toolbox. These fatty acids have benefits that include moisturizing, emulsifying and solubilizing properties. Two of the main topics discussed include properties of lecithin and its derivatives as well as important commercial derivatives of lecithin. view less
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Useful Expiring US Patents – L’Oreal 2013 George Deckner A favorite formulation tactic of industry expert George Deckner, mining expired or expiring US patents is a great way to quickly create new IP/products. In this article, he focuses on several L'Oreal patents that expired in 2013 and that could be used by ...view more A favorite formulation tactic of industry expert George Deckner, mining expired or expiring US patents is a great way to quickly create new IP/products. In this article, he focuses on several L'Oreal patents that expired in 2013 and that could be used by formulators now. view less
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Using Anti-Irritants to Combat Skin Sensitivity & Irritation George Deckner Skin sensitivity and irritation are common problems experienced by consumers globally. In this exclusive article, expert formulator George Deckner helps you understand their underlying causes and gives tips for developing anti-irritant strategies to comba...view more Skin sensitivity and irritation are common problems experienced by consumers globally. In this exclusive article, expert formulator George Deckner helps you understand their underlying causes and gives tips for developing anti-irritant strategies to combat these widespread issues. view less
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VALIDATING PROTEINS AS FUNCTIONAL COSMETIC INGREDIENTS – AN HGH CASE SÖFW/SOFW Traditionally, proteins were not considered as qualified candidates for cosmetic active ingredients mainly due to 1) their intrinsic labile nature in an aqueous solution and 2) their formidable size barriers in reaching viable skin layers. Specifically ta...view more Traditionally, proteins were not considered as qualified candidates for cosmetic active ingredients mainly due to 1) their intrinsic labile nature in an aqueous solution and 2) their formidable size barriers in reaching viable skin layers. Specifically targeting cells of the hair follicle through encapsulating a protein ingredient inside a liposome, an effective cosmetic outcome as well as an efficient protein delivery to critical cells of the skin can be attained. view less
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VEGETABLE OILS – THE BASE OF NEW ACTIVE PRINCIPLES SÖFW/SOFW Current cosmetic research has been steered towards the employment of vegetable ingredients by both the consumer’s preferences and the scientific research on the properties of natural origin raw materials.
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VITAMIN REPAIR SÖFW/SOFW The skin is often directly exposed to a pro-oxidative environment such as UV light, chemical oxidants, ozone and special micro-organisms. To counteract the induced oxidative skin damages, the skin is equipped with an enzymatic and non-enzymatic anti-oxida...view more The skin is often directly exposed to a pro-oxidative environment such as UV light, chemical oxidants, ozone and special micro-organisms. To counteract the induced oxidative skin damages, the skin is equipped with an enzymatic and non-enzymatic anti-oxidative system. It contains the enzyme Q10, the vitamin E and C, carotinoids, glutathione and uric acid. view less
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VOL.08 (2007.11) High Refractive Index Micro Bead for Soft Focus Effect Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) This is the Sunjin newsletter VOL.08 (2007.11). It highlights a high Refractive Index Micro Bead for Soft Focus Effect.
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VOL.11 (2008.08) “Natural Origin” UV Filters and Additional Raw Materials Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) This is the Sunjin newsletter VOL.11 (2008.08) with the information on “Natural Origin” UV Filters and Additional Raw Materials.
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VOL.12 (2008.02) Mono-Disperse PMMA Bead for Display and Silica Bead Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) VOL.12 (2008.02) of the Sunjin newsletter with information on the Mono-Disperse PMMA Bead For Display and the Silica Bead.
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VOL.18 (2009.09) Recent Study About Nanoparticles Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) A Recent Study About Nanoparticles in the Sunjin newsletter VOL.18 (2009.09).
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VOL.25 (2010.03) Talc Free Make Up Solution Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) VOL.25 (2010.03) of the Sunjin news offers information on a talc free make up solution.
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WAYS FOR COLD PROCESS MANUFACTURE OF EMULSIONS BASED ON SOLID EMULSIFIERS SÖFW/SOFW The group of phosphoric acid esters is a well introduced class of emulsifiers for cosmetic O/W emulsions. The concept behind these emulsifiers is shortly reviewed. Some of those raw materials are solid or can be combined with solid co-emulsifiers to give ...view more The group of phosphoric acid esters is a well introduced class of emulsifiers for cosmetic O/W emulsions. The concept behind these emulsifiers is shortly reviewed. Some of those raw materials are solid or can be combined with solid co-emulsifiers to give advantegous properties. A new process is described to use those solid emulsifiers in a sort of cold process, avoiding the standard hot-hot procedure by heating the two phases. view less
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WET WIPES PRESERVATION SÖFW/SOFW The wet wipes market has grown significantly during the past few years and has now become an important sector within the cosmetic and toiletry industry. Wet wipes are inherently more prone to contami nation than other standard cosmetic products such as sh...view more The wet wipes market has grown significantly during the past few years and has now become an important sector within the cosmetic and toiletry industry. Wet wipes are inherently more prone to contami nation than other standard cosmetic products such as shampoos, conditioners, creams, lotions, etc. This paper reviews all the important considerations necessary to ensure that wet wipe products are effectively preserved with very little chance of contamination. The paper concludes that the... view less
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WHERE BEAUTY IS SKIN DEEP: NUMEROUS BENEFITS OF PHYTOLIPIDS SÖFW/SOFW The use of natural ingredients is an important trend shaping the personal care market. Consumers are enticed by multicultural, multi-benefit products that promise perceivable benefits to enhance their physical beauty. For cosmetic and personal care compan...view more The use of natural ingredients is an important trend shaping the personal care market. Consumers are enticed by multicultural, multi-benefit products that promise perceivable benefits to enhance their physical beauty. For cosmetic and personal care companies, new opportunities proliferate at the boundaries of traditional market segments where the one trillion USD wellness market continues to expand at a rapid rate. view less
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WITH NEW DISPERSING TECHNOLOGIES TOWARDS NANOPARTICLES SÖFW/SOFW This paper gives an overview about state-of-the-art technologies and today's possibilities as well as technical and regulatory limitations. The focus is set on the potential of new homogenization technologies, which allow for the efficient and energy-savi...view more This paper gives an overview about state-of-the-art technologies and today's possibilities as well as technical and regulatory limitations. The focus is set on the potential of new homogenization technologies, which allow for the efficient and energy-saving dispersing of products of various categories. Examples of modern formulations with their specific technological requirements are presented. view less
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Wearable Edibles: 7 Ingredients Used in Food & Personal Care (Infographic) Priscilla Taylor Did you know the spirulina in your smoothie, the wax coating your apple and the olive oil in your salad dressing also offer amazing benefits for your personal care formulations? Check out seven food ingredients you can use to create skincare products, toi...view more Did you know the spirulina in your smoothie, the wax coating your apple and the olive oil in your salad dressing also offer amazing benefits for your personal care formulations? Check out seven food ingredients you can use to create skincare products, toiletries, haircare products and more in this infographic from industry experts Priscilla Taylor and Jill Frank. view less
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Xanthan Gum: A Workhorse Polysaccharide George Deckner Xanthan gum is the most important polysaccharide used in personal care formulations. It‘s a workhorse ingredient that is well worth learning how to use. Read this article by Geroge Deckner to learn about xanthan gum products and suppliers found in the per...view more Xanthan gum is the most important polysaccharide used in personal care formulations. It‘s a workhorse ingredient that is well worth learning how to use. Read this article by Geroge Deckner to learn about xanthan gum products and suppliers found in the personal care and cosmetics industry today. view less
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ZnO Free, Non Nano BB Cream SPF50, PA+++ Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) Something Remarkable: BB Cream with SPF50 PA++, Non Nano and No ZnO. The challenges that lead to this: ZnO is not welcomed in EU these days, BB Cream is almost always w/Si formula, to have UVB protection, option is limited to Parsol 1789 or Tinosorb S whi...view more Something Remarkable: BB Cream with SPF50 PA++, Non Nano and No ZnO. The challenges that lead to this: ZnO is not welcomed in EU these days, BB Cream is almost always w/Si formula, to have UVB protection, option is limited to Parsol 1789 or Tinosorb S which are both known for poor compatibility with silicone. view less
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in-cosmetics Barcelona 2015 Recap George Deckner In Cosmetics is the largest personal care ingredient exhibition in the world and was held this year in Barcelona Spain April 14-16. A record number of over 700 global exhibitors participated in this year’s show. Read George Deckner's article to learn more...view more In Cosmetics is the largest personal care ingredient exhibition in the world and was held this year in Barcelona Spain April 14-16. A record number of over 700 global exhibitors participated in this year’s show. Read George Deckner's article to learn more about important suppliers and products featured at this year's show. view less
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