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SÖFW/SOFW is a professional journal that discusses the development of perfume, detergents, and soap used in the Personal Care and Cosmetics industry. This journal contains many chemical-technical articles that are widely used by cosmetic formulators, chemists, and laboratory staffs. Topics that are discussed in this journal include formulations, new raw materials, legislation, methods of testing, and more.
"INFLUENCE OF LIPOSOMES ON THE PHOTOSTABILITY OF COENZYME Q10 IN CARBOMER GELS SÖFW/SOFW Active compounds can be protected against day light (UV radiation) induced degradation by their incorporation into liposomes and other colloidal carrier systems. Coenzyme Q10 (Q10) is a highly effective liposoluble non-enzymatic antioxidant which is used ...view more Active compounds can be protected against day light (UV radiation) induced degradation by their incorporation into liposomes and other colloidal carrier systems. Coenzyme Q10 (Q10) is a highly effective liposoluble non-enzymatic antioxidant which is used in cosmetic and dermato-pharmaceutical products because of its radical scavenger and bioenergetical properties. The aim of this study was to investigate the influence of colloidal carrier systems on the photostability of Q10... view less
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(2004.11) ANTI-AGEING EFFICACY IN HAIR CARE PRODUCTS SÖFW/SOFW Age associated damage to hair has been examined to determine changes in hair cuticle health and hair cortex health, by measuring surface tryptophan and tensile characteristics respectively, using trials designed to mimic typical consumer behaviour. Ageing...view more Age associated damage to hair has been examined to determine changes in hair cuticle health and hair cortex health, by measuring surface tryptophan and tensile characteristics respectively, using trials designed to mimic typical consumer behaviour. Ageing effects have been prevented through the use of a unique keratin protein active, a purified form of keratin intermediate filament protein, which protects the hair cuticle and cortex through a sacrificial mechanism. view less
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(2004.12) ALKYL-MODIFIED SILICONE WAXES AS CUSTOMIZED ADDITIVES FOR COSMETICS SÖFW/SOFW Cosmetic emulsions generally comprise an aqueous and an oily phase. Emulsions are very important throughout the cosmetics sector because they guarantee uniform distribution of both oil-soluble and water-soluble active agents. To stabilize cosmetic emulsio...view more Cosmetic emulsions generally comprise an aqueous and an oily phase. Emulsions are very important throughout the cosmetics sector because they guarantee uniform distribution of both oil-soluble and water-soluble active agents. To stabilize cosmetic emulsions and increase their viscosity, manufacturers use natural organic polymers (starch and cellulose derivatives), synthetic polymers (carbomers), inorganic gelling agents (silica, aluminum silicates) and also wax-like thickeners, such as long-chai view less
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(2004.12) BIMODAL POLYMERS FOR NEXT GENERATION HAIR STYLING PRODUCTS SÖFW/SOFW The unique bimodal technology was initially designed to enhance hair styling products by improving hold performance in quick setting formulations but has also shown excellent performance properties in most hair styling formulations. The ability of SYNTRAN...view more The unique bimodal technology was initially designed to enhance hair styling products by improving hold performance in quick setting formulations but has also shown excellent performance properties in most hair styling formulations. The ability of SYNTRAN® bimodal polymers to balance simultaneously opposing properties can help formulators to produce hair fixative products designed to provide the effectiveness and aesthetic properties demanded ... view less
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(2005.01) CONSEQUENCES OF THE 7TH AMENDMENT OF THE EU COSMETIC DIRECTIVE FOR NATURAL INGREDIENTS ... SÖFW/SOFW The Appendix III of the 7th Amendment of the EU Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC lists 26 new perfume and flavor substances. They are considered by the SCCNFP (Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products) to potentially cause contact alle...view more The Appendix III of the 7th Amendment of the EU Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC lists 26 new perfume and flavor substances. They are considered by the SCCNFP (Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products) to potentially cause contact allergies. To protect consumers the legislation demands to indicate these substances as part of the INCI declaration on cosmetic packages if the concentration of each of these single substances exceeds 10 ppm (0.001%) in leave-on products ... view less
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(2005.01) RESULTS OF TESTS WITH NEW COMBINATIONS OF ACTIVE AGENTS SÖFW/SOFW In order to formulate optimal cosmetics not only raw and auxiliary materials are necessary but also active agents. For understanding their mode of actions the composition of epidermis, dermis and subcutis has to be considered. According to these compositi...view more In order to formulate optimal cosmetics not only raw and auxiliary materials are necessary but also active agents. For understanding their mode of actions the composition of epidermis, dermis and subcutis has to be considered. According to these compositions the lipids and amino acids which are topically applied have to penetrate into the epidermis in order to protect and to strengthen the skin barriere located in the upper skin layer ( stratum corneum) and by this to keep the natural humidy... view less
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(2005.01) STUDY CONCERNING THE USE OF HERBAL RAW MATERIALS IN THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY SÖFW/SOFW Herbal raw materials present important starting compounds for the cosmetic industry because oil seeds are used as basic substances and medicinal and aroma plants contribute to the aroma and cosmetic effect of cosmetic products. In spite of the undisputedl...view more Herbal raw materials present important starting compounds for the cosmetic industry because oil seeds are used as basic substances and medicinal and aroma plants contribute to the aroma and cosmetic effect of cosmetic products. In spite of the undisputedly high importance of plant materials as basic substances in the cosmetic industry, inquiries indicated that no up-to-date surveys concerning the use of herbal raw materials cultivatable under domestic conditions are available. view less
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(2005.01) THE ORIGINAL YLANG-YLANG OIL FROM THE PHILIPPINES SÖFW/SOFW The tree Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook. f. & T. Thompson (Canangium odoratum Baill.) of the family of Annonaceae, occurs in 2 forms, e.g. macrophylla and genuina. On steam distillation, the flowers of the former yield essential oil of cananga, the latter oi...view more The tree Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook. f. & T. Thompson (Canangium odoratum Baill.) of the family of Annonaceae, occurs in 2 forms, e.g. macrophylla and genuina. On steam distillation, the flowers of the former yield essential oil of cananga, the latter oil of ylang-ylang. Cananga odorata is probably a native of the Moluccas or of the Philippine Islands, where it was once extensively cultivated, particularly near Manila, for the production of ylang-ylang essential oil. view less
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(2005.03) A BETTER WAY TO GET THE PROPERTIES OF HYALURONIC ACID ON DRY SKIN STATE SÖFW/SOFW Dry skin or skin dryness is a common skin surface disturbance experienced by most of us at some time. Clinically, dry skin is defined as a dry, less flexible, scaly and rough aspect of the upper layers of the epidermis. In more severe cases of dryness, a ...view more Dry skin or skin dryness is a common skin surface disturbance experienced by most of us at some time. Clinically, dry skin is defined as a dry, less flexible, scaly and rough aspect of the upper layers of the epidermis. In more severe cases of dryness, a condition described by the dermatologist as xerosis, fissuring, scaling and cracking may occur. A few people are often afflicted with skin dryness and almost all individuals suffer from dry skin as they grow older. In fact, dry skin is a mass... view less
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(2005.03) DRY WATER FOR THE SKIN SÖFW/SOFW Dry water is a powder with a water content of up to 95% by weight. It is formed through intensive mixing of water with hydrophobic fumed silicon dioxide. During this process, the solid particles wrap around the water droplets, preventing them from coalesc...view more Dry water is a powder with a water content of up to 95% by weight. It is formed through intensive mixing of water with hydrophobic fumed silicon dioxide. During this process, the solid particles wrap around the water droplets, preventing them from coalescing. First attempts to use Dry Water as a cosmetic base go back to the 1960’s (1-3). In the 1990’s the concept was further developed, mainly by Japanese cosmetics companies (4-7). This article provides a detailed overview on the manufacture... view less
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(2005.03) TEXTURE MODIFICATION AS A TOOL FOR MODERN FORMULATION DESIGN SÖFW/SOFW A thorough understanding of emulsion textures and how these can be modified is essential for creating skin care formulations that fulfil the customers’ requirements, match marketing claims and can be well differentiated from competitor’s products. The ing...view more A thorough understanding of emulsion textures and how these can be modified is essential for creating skin care formulations that fulfil the customers’ requirements, match marketing claims and can be well differentiated from competitor’s products. The ingredients of a formulation are important in defining the texture and can be modified to give the target texture. To this end, the effect of a novel consistency wax on the texture is discussed, along with that of a polymeric gellant and select ... view less
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(2005.04) AMARANTH SEED OIL – ANTI-INFLAMMATORY EFFECTS ON PSORIASIS VULGARISAND DERMATITIS ATOPICA SÖFW/SOFW Amaranth (Amaranthus caudatus) is one of the oldest useful plants of the world. The name Amaranthus originates from the Greek language and means »immortal« or »unfading«. The plant is assigned to the foxtail family of plants and is therefore often referre...view more Amaranth (Amaranthus caudatus) is one of the oldest useful plants of the world. The name Amaranthus originates from the Greek language and means »immortal« or »unfading«. The plant is assigned to the foxtail family of plants and is therefore often referred to as pseudo cereal. Already thousands of years ago it was a staple crop of South American populations and was revered as a holy plant by the Incas and the Aztecs. view less
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(2005.04) MILLET OIL FOR SKIN AND HAIR CARE SÖFW/SOFW Millet is a general term for a wide range of smallseeded annual grasses that have been grown for thousands of years on all continents. Even today, millets are still the main source of food in some countries in Asia and Africa. Millet seeds are relatively ...view more Millet is a general term for a wide range of smallseeded annual grasses that have been grown for thousands of years on all continents. Even today, millets are still the main source of food in some countries in Asia and Africa. Millet seeds are relatively rich in oil and contain essential fatty acids and exogenous essential amino acids as well as different mineral substances. view less
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(2005.04) SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, AN EMULSIFYING AGENT FOR COLD PRODUCTION OF O/W EMULSIONS SÖFW/SOFW Modern manufacturing practices require effective, time and costs saving production processes. In this context the cold production of emulsions, which avoids laborious and energy-intensive heating and cooling phases, is always in discussion. In practice, t...view more Modern manufacturing practices require effective, time and costs saving production processes. In this context the cold production of emulsions, which avoids laborious and energy-intensive heating and cooling phases, is always in discussion. In practice, this concept presented the formulator with some major issues regarding stability of the emulsions which up to now have not been completely resolved. The emulsifying systems presented to the industry so far generally require a very precise ... view less
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(2010.01/02) MEASURING SKIN ABSORPTION IN VITRO SÖFW/SOFW To measure skin absortion in vitro, different setups and skin from different species ( e.g.human or animal skin) preparations may be used, depending on the scientific question under investigation. Moreover, there are different ways to prepare the tissue, ...view more To measure skin absortion in vitro, different setups and skin from different species ( e.g.human or animal skin) preparations may be used, depending on the scientific question under investigation. Moreover, there are different ways to prepare the tissue, to conduct the actual experiment, and also to present and to analyse the obtained data, e.g.either to provide information on skin permeation or penetration. view less
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4-METHYL-4-PHENYL-2-PENTANOL – A NEW DEODORANT ACTIVE SÖFW/SOFW The present article relates to investigations on the antimicrobial properties of newly synthesized 4-methyl-4-aryl-2-pentanols. These compounds exhibit interesting antimicrobial activity profiles.
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A 3D HUMAN SKIN MODEL AS AN IN VITRO TEST SYSTEM SÖFW/SOFW The basic principle of tissue engineering is to isolate and grow cells of human or animal origin while retaining cell functionality. These organoid cell cultures are used as in vitro test systems for initial characterization of a substance. They also make...view more The basic principle of tissue engineering is to isolate and grow cells of human or animal origin while retaining cell functionality. These organoid cell cultures are used as in vitro test systems for initial characterization of a substance. They also make it possible to find answers to complex medical questions and can serve as a precursor to animal experiments for testing substances in the medical technology, cosmetic, pharmaceutical and chemical industries. view less
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A COMBINED METHODOLOGY FOR THE RAPID SCREENING OF STRUCTURAL INGREDIENTS FOR DISPERSE... SÖFW/SOFW The main purpose of the study is to build an analytical methodology which enables formulation chemists to choose the most suitable structural ingredient (e.g. emulsifier, rheology modifier) for a formulation basing their decisions on objective evaluations...view more The main purpose of the study is to build an analytical methodology which enables formulation chemists to choose the most suitable structural ingredient (e.g. emulsifier, rheology modifier) for a formulation basing their decisions on objective evaluations and without the need for protracted stability testing. The methodology includes the techniques of particle size measurements, steady and dynamic state rheology evaluations, optical microscopy analysis and centrifuge tests. view less
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A COMPLEX OF BOTANICAL INGREDIENTS MANAGING IMPURE SKIN SÖFW/SOFW A novel product based on botanical ingredients, here called CBMM Complex (Trade Name: Cutipure CLR™) showing potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial features, has been found to effectively manage impure skin, with a special focus on comedones, pimples,...view more A novel product based on botanical ingredients, here called CBMM Complex (Trade Name: Cutipure CLR™) showing potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial features, has been found to effectively manage impure skin, with a special focus on comedones, pimples, and pustules. view less
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A DIFFERENT APPROACH TO LIFTING EFFICACY BASED ON A NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENT SÖFW/SOFW Facial contouring, firming of double chins, body firming and anti-wrinkle have become strong claims of the antiageing care market. A new solution from Gattefossé research targets the dermal network and its physiological plasticity. Spilanthes acmellaplant...view more Facial contouring, firming of double chins, body firming and anti-wrinkle have become strong claims of the antiageing care market. A new solution from Gattefossé research targets the dermal network and its physiological plasticity. Spilanthes acmellaplant extract offers key benefits for the next generation of anti-age applications. It exhibits powerful activity to stimulate, reorganize and strengthen the collagen network. view less
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A HYDROPHILIC EMOLLIENT FOR AQUEOUS AND AQUEOUS/ALCOHOL-BASED COSMETIC PREPARATIONS SÖFW/SOFW This article describes a new hydrophilic emollient for use in aqueous and aqueous/ alcohol- based cosmetic preparations. Product efficacy is documented by means of an in-vivo application study. Formulations are presented that demonstrate the broad range o...view more This article describes a new hydrophilic emollient for use in aqueous and aqueous/ alcohol- based cosmetic preparations. Product efficacy is documented by means of an in-vivo application study. Formulations are presented that demonstrate the broad range of applications for this hydrophilic emollient. view less
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A MINERAL OIL-FREE EMULSIFIER BLEND FOR W/O EMULSIONS SÖFW/SOFW Due to the increasing percentage of people with dry skin in the population W/O formulations gain more and more importance. This article describes a mineral oil-free emulsifier blend which facilitates the technical production of this product type. In addit...view more Due to the increasing percentage of people with dry skin in the population W/O formulations gain more and more importance. This article describes a mineral oil-free emulsifier blend which facilitates the technical production of this product type. In addition it is possible to develop new formulations, which do not show the negative product properties classic W/O creams are known for.  view less
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A NEW ACCELERATOR AND LONG-LASTING TANNING PATENTED PEPTIDE SÖFW/SOFW In the 20th century a new trend started which has grown throughout the years until our days: the tanning culture. Nowadays, people spend hours under the sun or in the tanning salons to get their longed sun-kissed skin as tanned skin has become a symbol of...view more In the 20th century a new trend started which has grown throughout the years until our days: the tanning culture. Nowadays, people spend hours under the sun or in the tanning salons to get their longed sun-kissed skin as tanned skin has become a symbol of health and beauty. The genetically constitutive skin colour and tan is determined by the skin level of the melanin biopolymer pigment.  view less
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A NEW ANALYTICAL METHOD FOR DETERMINATION OF SECONDARY ALKANOLAMINES IMPURITIES IN PRIMARY SÖFW/SOFW A new analytical method has been set-up for the selective determination of a secondary alkanolamine (diethanolamine (DEA)) in tertiary and primary alkanolamines commercial samples (triethanolamine (TEA) and monoethanolamine (MEA)). In fact, the European l...view more A new analytical method has been set-up for the selective determination of a secondary alkanolamine (diethanolamine (DEA)) in tertiary and primary alkanolamines commercial samples (triethanolamine (TEA) and monoethanolamine (MEA)). In fact, the European law poses precise restrictions to the maximum allowed concentrations of secondary alkanolamines in the raw materials and in the finished products. The proposed analytical method makes use of ion chromatography interfaced with mass spectrometry. view less
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A NEW APPROACH OF DRY SKIN: USE OF A REGULATOR OF THE EPIDERMAL CIRCULATING HYDRATION... SÖFW/SOFW The epidermal hydration results from two regulation systems. On one hand, a dynamic system is responsible for the water circulation from the dermis towards the skin surface. This water transport is ensured by aquaporins-3, water channels located in kerati...view more The epidermal hydration results from two regulation systems. On one hand, a dynamic system is responsible for the water circulation from the dermis towards the skin surface. This water transport is ensured by aquaporins-3, water channels located in keratinocyte membranes. On the other hand, a static system, composed at least of hyaluronic acid, improves the water holding capacity of the epidermis. view less
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A NEW APPROACH TO ANTI-AGING SKIN CARE – BIOLOGY, TECHNOLOGY AND PSYCHOLOGY SÖFW/SOFW The human eye is a superb contrast meter and, indeed, when viewing the skin of an ageing human face, the eye is drawn to the areas of highest luminance contrast – uneven topography and high colour contrast. To a large degree, our perception of age and att...view more The human eye is a superb contrast meter and, indeed, when viewing the skin of an ageing human face, the eye is drawn to the areas of highest luminance contrast – uneven topography and high colour contrast. To a large degree, our perception of age and attractiveness is dependent upon these features. view less
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A NEW APPROACH TO ANTI-AGING SKIN CARE: THE IMPORTANCE OF CONTROLLING MAST CELL TRYPTASE.. SÖFW/SOFW Aging is a basic biological process characteristic of all living organisms influenced by several factors. The aging skin is characterized by the skin wrinkling, laxicity, and pigmentation induced by several environmental stress factors. Cutaneous aging is...view more Aging is a basic biological process characteristic of all living organisms influenced by several factors. The aging skin is characterized by the skin wrinkling, laxicity, and pigmentation induced by several environmental stress factors. Cutaneous aging is classified into two main categories: intrinsic aging, which is genetically determined and extrinsic aging caused by environmental exposure, mainly UV light. view less
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A NEW BIOLOGICALLY COMPATIBLE PHYSICAL SUNSCREEN WITH SKIN FIRMING PROPERTIES SÖFW/SOFW A new skin-friendly micro-dispersed mineral active, belonging to the Hydroxyapatites group, has been discovered. It is able to enhance UV-B ray protection significantly. Its performances are comparable or even superior to those of Titanium dioxide, withou...view more A new skin-friendly micro-dispersed mineral active, belonging to the Hydroxyapatites group, has been discovered. It is able to enhance UV-B ray protection significantly. Its performances are comparable or even superior to those of Titanium dioxide, without any blue-white appearance and at a lower cost of the formula. Moreover, it does not react with dibenzoylmethane UVA sunscreens. view less
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A NEW BIOPOLYMER FOR REFRESHMENT SÖFW/SOFW The discovery of rhizobian gum comes from agronomical research, and the study of microorganisms living in the soil in symbiosis with the plants. A specific microorganism identified as a Rhizobium bacterium lives in contact with the roots of sunflower. Thi...view more The discovery of rhizobian gum comes from agronomical research, and the study of microorganisms living in the soil in symbiosis with the plants. A specific microorganism identified as a Rhizobium bacterium lives in contact with the roots of sunflower. This bacterium is gram-negative, catalase-negative, and oxydase-positive. In time of draught, the polymer synthesized by the bacterium forms a film around the root.  view less
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A NEW BROAD SPECTRUM PRESERVATIVE FOR DIFFICULT-TO-PROTECT PERSONAL CARE FORMULATIONS SÖFW/SOFW Optiphen MIT Ultra is a patent pending liquid preservative blend of MIT with a booster that can be found naturally in flowers and fruits, such as strawberries, bilberries and blackberries. The booster component serves to broaden the activi - ty profile of...view more Optiphen MIT Ultra is a patent pending liquid preservative blend of MIT with a booster that can be found naturally in flowers and fruits, such as strawberries, bilberries and blackberries. The booster component serves to broaden the activi - ty profile of MIT against bacteria, yeast and mould. Historically, formulators have had to rely on formaldehyde donors or halogen based chemistry when faced with challenging formulations. view less
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A NEW CONCEPT APPROACH TOWARDS ANTI-AGING COSMETICS SÖFW/SOFW The usage of anti-aging claims in newly marketed products is still a leading trend for cosmetic products. Remarkable in that respect is the recurrent combination of anti-aging claims with the usage of pearlescent pigments. The PassionAge formulation conce...view more The usage of anti-aging claims in newly marketed products is still a leading trend for cosmetic products. Remarkable in that respect is the recurrent combination of anti-aging claims with the usage of pearlescent pigments. The PassionAge formulation concept takes a closer look at these findings and demonstrates how to utilize pearlescent pigments in order to optically fulfil consumers' expectation of antiaging products. view less
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A NEW CONCEPT TO BOOST THE PRESERVATIVE EFFICACY OF PHENOXYETHANOL SÖFW/SOFW A new cosmetic preservative for leave-on products based on a combination of the active ingredient phenoxyethanol and the skin care additive and deodorant active ethylhexylglycerin is presented. Ethylhexylglycerin boosts the antimicrobial activity of pheno...view more A new cosmetic preservative for leave-on products based on a combination of the active ingredient phenoxyethanol and the skin care additive and deodorant active ethylhexylglycerin is presented. Ethylhexylglycerin boosts the antimicrobial activity of phenoxyethanol. Properties, antimicrobial activity and a possible mechanism of action are discussed. view less
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A NEW COSMETIC ACTIVE FOR SAFE SKIN BRIGHTENING SÖFW/SOFW The use of skin brighteners vary between cultures and races. In Western countries, skin brightening agents are applied for the treatment of hyperpigmented spots and the production of an evener skin tone. In Asia, the use of skin brighteners is widely exte...view more The use of skin brighteners vary between cultures and races. In Western countries, skin brightening agents are applied for the treatment of hyperpigmented spots and the production of an evener skin tone. In Asia, the use of skin brighteners is widely extended; lighter skin is a desirable feature and it is considered a symbol of beauty and femininity. Skin brightening products face a worldwide market and its intended uses range from genuine therapy to beauty-enhancing products. view less
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A NEW FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT ABLE TO BUILD UP FLUID SYSTEM ON THE BASIS OF OLIVE OIL SÖFW/SOFW Olive oil, among all the natural lipids, is the one showing the highest compatibility with our skin: the innovative idea is combining all the precious virtues of olive oil with interesting cosmetic functionalities, such as the emulsifying ability as in th...view more Olive oil, among all the natural lipids, is the one showing the highest compatibility with our skin: the innovative idea is combining all the precious virtues of olive oil with interesting cosmetic functionalities, such as the emulsifying ability as in their speficic case. The importance of the right emulsifier is generally recognised: the structure, the stability, the safety profile of a final product greatly depend on the chosen emulsifier. Today also the sensoriality of the cream is ... view less
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A NEW GENERATION OF MILD PERSONAL CLEANSING PRODUCTS PROVIDING SKIN MOISTURE SÖFW/SOFW Clear personal care formulations containing cleansing surfactants combined with substantial amounts of oils have been shown to be extremely mild to the skin while providing good cleansing properties and a considerable moisturizing effect. Such cleansing f...view more Clear personal care formulations containing cleansing surfactants combined with substantial amounts of oils have been shown to be extremely mild to the skin while providing good cleansing properties and a considerable moisturizing effect. Such cleansing formulations can be made using an ethersulfate MIPA-salt and a castor oil derivative.  view less
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A NEW HYDROPHYLIC ANTIOXIDANT FROM TAMARINDUS INDICA SÖFW/SOFW A high molecular weight part of Tamarindus indica seed husk extract containing purified natural complex of branched polysaccharide with polyphenolic components (Polyant-T) was evaluated for its antioxidant efficiency.
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A NOVEL CARRIER SYSTEM FOR COSMETIC APPLICATION SÖFW/SOFW In the last decades many different carrier systems for cosmetic applications have been developed. This study introduces a novel carrier system for cosmetic applications based on natural ingredients only, named NanoSolve. The Nano- Solve principle allows t...view more In the last decades many different carrier systems for cosmetic applications have been developed. This study introduces a novel carrier system for cosmetic applications based on natural ingredients only, named NanoSolve. The Nano- Solve principle allows the production of transparent emulsions with particle sizes of approximately 100 nm for a variety of lipids or lipophilic actives. view less
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A NOVEL EX VIVO PIG SKIN ORGAN CULTURE MODEL FOR EFFICACY AND SAFETY TESTING SÖFW/SOFW Although the testing of finished products on animals has long been banned as a consequence of the implementation of the EU Directives and consumer demand for ethical-driven products, the cosmetics industry is still far from being equipped with a repertoir...view more Although the testing of finished products on animals has long been banned as a consequence of the implementation of the EU Directives and consumer demand for ethical-driven products, the cosmetics industry is still far from being equipped with a repertoire of efficient screening alternatives. view less
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A NOVEL PEG-FREE EMULSIFIER DESIGNED FOR FORMULATING W/O LOTIONS WITH A LIGHT SKIN FEEL SÖFW/SOFW Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions offer a series of significant benefits compared to traditional oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. By forming an occlusive layer on the skin they are efficiently reducing the evaporative water loss from the skin. Thus they are widel...view more Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions offer a series of significant benefits compared to traditional oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. By forming an occlusive layer on the skin they are efficiently reducing the evaporative water loss from the skin. Thus they are widely used in formulations targeting the needs of the consumer with dry skin. Moreover, their excellent water repellency makes them a very attractive formulation basis for sun care and color cosmetics formulations. Despite of these attractive... view less
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A RELIABLE ALTERNATIVE FOR TRADITIONAL PRESERVATIVE SYSTEMS SÖFW/SOFW Cosmetic preservation is increasingly under pressure. Industry sensitivity towards the toxicology of biocides has been raised. Europe and the U.S. have started re-evaluating the safety of cosmetic preservatives. As more cosmetic manufacturers want to go »...view more Cosmetic preservation is increasingly under pressure. Industry sensitivity towards the toxicology of biocides has been raised. Europe and the U.S. have started re-evaluating the safety of cosmetic preservatives. As more cosmetic manufacturers want to go »global«, the public debate around the world regarding traditional cosmetic preservatives limits the options available to cosmetic manufacturers. Cosmetic formulators are realising the need for alternative approaches to product protection. view less
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A REVIEW OF EDELWEISS SÖFW/SOFW Endangered species are one of the largest worries for any of us concerned about the future of certain precious plants. Techniques vary and cell culture is one method that was examined to preserve edelweiss (1). Following demands by drug, food and cosmetic...view more Endangered species are one of the largest worries for any of us concerned about the future of certain precious plants. Techniques vary and cell culture is one method that was examined to preserve edelweiss (1). Following demands by drug, food and cosmetics industries, attempts have been made, since 1995, to cultivate edelweiss ( Leontopodium alpinum) in Bruson (Valais, Switzerland, 1100 m a.s.l.). Some growers in the neighbouring mountains also tested this new crop ... view less
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A SAFE AND EFFICIENT SUNSCREEN PROTECTION SÖFW/SOFW Sun protection is still a very emotional subject and is a popular topic for discussion in both our private lives and also in the media and science. More often than not people are split into two sunscreen categories – the users and the non-users. We will s...view more Sun protection is still a very emotional subject and is a popular topic for discussion in both our private lives and also in the media and science. More often than not people are split into two sunscreen categories – the users and the non-users. We will show briefly in this article why it is necessary and possible to use reliable systems that are easy and pleasant to apply and do not represent a risk for the consumer. view less
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A SMART CYCLOPEPTIDE MIMICS THE RGD CONTAINING CELL ADHESION PROTEINS AT THE RIGHT SITE SÖFW/SOFW Large proteins and small peptides are well known as attractive ingredients for cosmetics. On skin, peptides regulate the activity of many biological processes. Several single natural amino acids originating from biodegradation processes of peptides, are d...view more Large proteins and small peptides are well known as attractive ingredients for cosmetics. On skin, peptides regulate the activity of many biological processes. Several single natural amino acids originating from biodegradation processes of peptides, are deemed to produce positive effects on skin, hair, and nails. view less
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A SOLUTION TO INFLAMMATORY BY A NEW HOLISTIC APPROACH SÖFW/SOFW Today, we are in a society where the feeling of well-being is becoming more and more important. The plant extract Tephrosia purpureabelongs to these new Neurocosmétique actives which turn your creams into feel-good products. Neurocosmétique came into bein...view more Today, we are in a society where the feeling of well-being is becoming more and more important. The plant extract Tephrosia purpureabelongs to these new Neurocosmétique actives which turn your creams into feel-good products. Neurocosmétique came into being thanks to the discovery that every skin cell is capable of synthesizing neurotransmitters and more particularly that keratinocytes synthesize beta-endorphin, the life-enhancing molecule. This molecule is for example responsible for the ... view less
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A USER FRIENDLY AND RELIABLE ECVAM VALIDATED IN VITRO SKIN IRRITATION 42 BIS PROTOCOL SÖFW/SOFW Current European cosmetics and chemicals legislation (REACh: Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals, June 2007) prescribed the use of alternative methods to animal testing (1). In addition, the 7th Amendment to the EU Cosmeti...view more Current European cosmetics and chemicals legislation (REACh: Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals, June 2007) prescribed the use of alternative methods to animal testing (1). In addition, the 7th Amendment to the EU Cosmetics Directive, Directive 76/768/ECC, decrees a complete ban on animal testing for cosmetic ingredients and finished products. view less
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A WELL-FORMULATED SUNSCREEN FOR THE RIGHT PROTECTION SÖFW/SOFW Because of the pathological effects of UV radiation on the skin there is a great need for highly-protective and also with regard to contact allergies and light dermatosis safe sunscreens. Consumers want to be sure that they are well protected while being ...view more Because of the pathological effects of UV radiation on the skin there is a great need for highly-protective and also with regard to contact allergies and light dermatosis safe sunscreens. Consumers want to be sure that they are well protected while being in the sun for sun bathing or during swimming or other sporting activities. UV filters (UV-absorbent or reflective substances) protect the skin against damage such as sunburn, premature aging, skin cancer and UV light-induced sensitivity. view less
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A WORLD OF WELLNESS IN BEIJING SÖFW/SOFW The 8th World Congress of the International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (I.S.C.D.) held in Beijing last October has stressed to all the participant the value of life teaching to treasure and enjoy life. The first meeting on wellness full of many healt...view more The 8th World Congress of the International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (I.S.C.D.) held in Beijing last October has stressed to all the participant the value of life teaching to treasure and enjoy life. The first meeting on wellness full of many health care experts coming both from East and West has achieved its object to give clear indications for a better way of living view less
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ABOUT THE EFFICACY OF DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS SÖFW/SOFW For several years there has been a steady increase in the range of dietary supplements designed to maintain the health of skin and hair by guaranteeing an adequate supply of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants etc. For the substance category of carotenoids a...view more For several years there has been a steady increase in the range of dietary supplements designed to maintain the health of skin and hair by guaranteeing an adequate supply of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants etc. For the substance category of carotenoids a function as antioxidants in lipophile systems has been established in recent years. view less
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ACNE – A CONDITION IN THREE STAGES SÖFW/SOFW Few adolescents are unaffected by skin problems, whether simple shine or acne. Acne is undoubtedly one of the most frustrating skin disorders which, besides its visible signs, can induce certain emotional or psychological issues. 80% of 15-25 year olds ha...view more Few adolescents are unaffected by skin problems, whether simple shine or acne. Acne is undoubtedly one of the most frustrating skin disorders which, besides its visible signs, can induce certain emotional or psychological issues. 80% of 15-25 year olds have skin problems and they represent the main target for purifying cosmetic products. These imperfections are not however the sole preserve of teenagers as 20% of adults suffer from so-called late onset acne. Their problems are caused by the ... view less
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ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FROM MUSHROOMS AND OTHER FUNGI – FROM TCM TO NEW PRODUCTS IN COSMETICS SÖFW/SOFW In traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), various fungal species are described for different dermatological and dermato-cosmetical applications. The wood-inhabiting fungus Armillariella mellea is used against Xerosis cutis, other fungi like Bovista plumbea o...view more In traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), various fungal species are described for different dermatological and dermato-cosmetical applications. The wood-inhabiting fungus Armillariella mellea is used against Xerosis cutis, other fungi like Bovista plumbea or Podostroma yunnanensis in powder form against wound healing disorders. Auricularia auricula is regarded as a potent agent for the treatment of haemorrhoids. view less
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ACTIVE TEXTURES AND EXTRAORDINARY SENSATIONS – INFLUENCED BY NATURE SÖFW/SOFW Today’s consumers’ choice is lead by the sensations a cosmetic product provides on the skin. Textures must be more and more pleasant, comfortable, surprising, fresh… Cosmetic brands made a major effort with textures in order to create products with as muc...view more Today’s consumers’ choice is lead by the sensations a cosmetic product provides on the skin. Textures must be more and more pleasant, comfortable, surprising, fresh… Cosmetic brands made a major effort with textures in order to create products with as much poly-sensorial appeal as possible. view less
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ADVANCED ADSORPTION FOR ACTIVES APPLICATION SÖFW/SOFW The increase in skin cancers has heightened public awareness to the damaging effects of the sun and many skin preparations are now available to help protect the skin from UV radiation. The actives employed in these preparations are of two basic types: org...view more The increase in skin cancers has heightened public awareness to the damaging effects of the sun and many skin preparations are now available to help protect the skin from UV radiation. The actives employed in these preparations are of two basic types: organics which can absorb UV radiation of specific wavelengths due to their chemical structure; inorganics which both absorb and scatter UV radiation. view less
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AFM BASED SINGLE HAIR INTERACTION MEASUREMENTS SÖFW/SOFW New material development and understanding existing market products requires detailed testing of treated surfaces and thin films. The effects of hair care products like shampoo and conditioner show in properties like combability and haptic perception of h...view more New material development and understanding existing market products requires detailed testing of treated surfaces and thin films. The effects of hair care products like shampoo and conditioner show in properties like combability and haptic perception of hair. Therefore, systematic investigations are carried out in order to improve the understanding and the quality of ingredients. view less
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AGEING AND ANTIOXIDANTS SÖFW/SOFW The application of optical methods enables the efficient, non-invasive examination of skin parameters, including the structure of the skin surface. The structure of the skin surface is commonly investigated by determining the skin roughness, which reflect...view more The application of optical methods enables the efficient, non-invasive examination of skin parameters, including the structure of the skin surface. The structure of the skin surface is commonly investigated by determining the skin roughness, which reflects the density and depth of furrows and wrinkles in the skin. Recently, it was also possible to quantitatively and qualitatively detect carotenoid antioxidants non-invasively with Raman spectroscopic measurements. view less
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ALKYL POLYGLYCOSIDES – WHERE »GREEN« MEETS PERFORMANCE SÖFW/SOFW Awareness of natural products by consumers has accelerated over the last several years, resulting in continued growth for the overall green market. Consumers are steadily embracing the philosophy of »greenness « in all aspects of their lives, consequently...view more Awareness of natural products by consumers has accelerated over the last several years, resulting in continued growth for the overall green market. Consumers are steadily embracing the philosophy of »greenness « in all aspects of their lives, consequently favoring products that are derived from natural and environmentally sound raw materials. Alkyl polyglycosides represent a solution for manufacturers to effectively meet this demand for mild, environmentally sound ingredients. view less
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ALLERGENIC SUBSTANCES IN FRAGRANCES – VALIDATION AND IMPLEMENTATIONS OF THE GC/MSD METHOD SÖFW/SOFW Introduction Following the amendment to the 76/786 cosmetics Directive (amendment VII: Directive 2003/15/CE), since March 11th 2005, it has become mandatory to indicate on the label (among the list of ingredients) the name of the 26 substances.
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AMINO ACIDS TO INCREASE DNA REPAIR AFTER UVB IRRADIATION OF RECONSTITUTED HUMAN SKIN SÖFW/SOFW Skin is continuously exposed to attack from environmental aggressors such as solar radiation. UVB induces DNA damage such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) formation, but the natural DNA repairing mechanism slows down with aging, contributing to incre...view more Skin is continuously exposed to attack from environmental aggressors such as solar radiation. UVB induces DNA damage such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) formation, but the natural DNA repairing mechanism slows down with aging, contributing to increased risk of mutation. To accelerate DNA repair, we formulated a complex containing the amino acids acetyl tyrosine and proline (Unirepair T-43). view less
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AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT FROM ANOGEISSUS LEIOCARPUS – THE LINK BETWEEN SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT SÖFW/SOFW Dakaline is an extract of a sacred tree of Burkina Faso (Africa), Anogeissus leiocarpus, is a multifunctional anti-aging active ingredient reducing time damages. The leaves, roots and bark are widely used for medical treatments.
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AN AMINO ACID BASED SURFACTANT TARGETING SHAMPOO BASED ON A NATURAL CONCEPT SÖFW/SOFW Amino acid derivatives are highly biodegradable and friendly to the environment, since they originate from amino acids which occur naturally in organisms in large quantities. A recently developed surfactant for shampoo derived from one of amino acids, L-A...view more Amino acid derivatives are highly biodegradable and friendly to the environment, since they originate from amino acids which occur naturally in organisms in large quantities. A recently developed surfactant for shampoo derived from one of amino acids, L-Alanine. Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate (ACS) is based on L-Alanine that is found in large quantities in collagen, exhibited characteristics that are favorable as a shampoo component. view less
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AN INNOVATIVE SERUM TO PROMOTE HAIR GROWTH SÖFW/SOFW As part of the normal hair-growth cycle each of us looses hair. Our body then replaces it with some new strands as part of the many renewal processes in our body systems. As we all age, the regrowth of new hair gradually slows down. This observable fact i...view more As part of the normal hair-growth cycle each of us looses hair. Our body then replaces it with some new strands as part of the many renewal processes in our body systems. As we all age, the regrowth of new hair gradually slows down. This observable fact is more evident in men than women, whose male pattern baldness is genetically determined and can begin as early as age 20. For women, hair normally thins after age 50, and considerable hair loss before that age is rare even though possible. view less
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AN IRON COMPLEX FOR COLLAGEN REGENERATION SÖFW/SOFW Trace elements play a fundamental physiological role in the chemistry of living matter, to the point where an organism cannot develop its life cycle without them. Today, we are rediscovering the properties of these essential molecules, while applying our ...view more Trace elements play a fundamental physiological role in the chemistry of living matter, to the point where an organism cannot develop its life cycle without them. Today, we are rediscovering the properties of these essential molecules, while applying our knowledge of the skin to identify the mechanisms through which certain metals act. view less
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ANTI-AGEING SKIN CARE FOR CUTANEOUS... SÖFW/SOFW Ultraviolet (UV) exposure strongly influences skin aging (so-called photoaging). Sun-exposed skin shows not only superficial changes, such as wrinkles and sagging, but also many internal changes in the epidermis and dermis.
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ANTI-AGING STATUS OF SKIN CHARACTERIZED BY THE SKIN ANTIOXIDATIVE PROTECTION SAP – EFFICAC SÖFW/SOFW Aging of skin is strongly correlated to the existence of free radicals/ROS, which are generated by external and internal stress factors. The skin, as a link between the exterior and interior milieu of human body is exposed eminently to the oxidative stres...view more Aging of skin is strongly correlated to the existence of free radicals/ROS, which are generated by external and internal stress factors. The skin, as a link between the exterior and interior milieu of human body is exposed eminently to the oxidative stress of both sides. Topical and systemic applied antioxidants increase or balance the Skin Antioxidative Protection SAP. view less
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ANTI-CELLULITE PRODUCTS ATTUNED TO SKIN TYPE SÖFW/SOFW Just about every woman knows about unsightly bumps on the thighs and behind. The phenomenon of cellulite is given many names in literature (Adiposis edematosa, Dermopanniculosis deformans, Gynoid lopodystrophy, nodular liposclerosis, Status protrusus cuti...view more Just about every woman knows about unsightly bumps on the thighs and behind. The phenomenon of cellulite is given many names in literature (Adiposis edematosa, Dermopanniculosis deformans, Gynoid lopodystrophy, nodular liposclerosis, Status protrusus cutis), which already make it clear that there are many factors involved in the appearance of cellulite (1). view less
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ANTIAGING EFFECT WITH COSMOTROPIC SUBSTANCES SÖFW/SOFW Water is one of the most important and limiting factors for plants, animals and humans. The human being consists of 60-65% water and loses daily up to several liters through the skin. The regulation of water content is therefore very significant. Plants e...view more Water is one of the most important and limiting factors for plants, animals and humans. The human being consists of 60-65% water and loses daily up to several liters through the skin. The regulation of water content is therefore very significant. Plants especially have developed fascinating physiological and structural strategies to minimize water loss and survive periods of dryness. The so called resurrection plants are examples of such survival artists. These plants have the ability to dry.. view less
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ANTIMICROBIAL ADDITIVES FOR COSMETIC FORMULATIONS SÖFW/SOFW Skin flora consists of staphylococci, propioni bacteria and coryne bacteria but undesirable fungi are also commonly present on skin. Under special circumstances these microbes may cause different cosmetic problems. Cosmetics based on a special combination...view more Skin flora consists of staphylococci, propioni bacteria and coryne bacteria but undesirable fungi are also commonly present on skin. Under special circumstances these microbes may cause different cosmetic problems. Cosmetics based on a special combination of different structured agents are able to prevent or to successfully treat the undesired effects, like smell, dandruff, blemishes and athlete's foot. view less
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ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY OF SOME NATURAL ANTIOXIDANTS IN LIPIDS AT AMBIENT TEMPERATURE SÖFW/SOFW The antioxidative properties of 0.02% α-tocopherol, quercetin, morin, caffeic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, thymol and carvacrol were studied during the autoxidation of triacylglycerols of lard (TGL) and triacylglycerols of sunflower oil (TGSO) at room...view more The antioxidative properties of 0.02% α-tocopherol, quercetin, morin, caffeic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, thymol and carvacrol were studied during the autoxidation of triacylglycerols of lard (TGL) and triacylglycerols of sunflower oil (TGSO) at room temperature. The stabilization factor (F) as a measure of effectiveness, the oxidation rate ratio (ORR) as a measure of strength, and activity (A) which combines the above two factors, were determined. view less
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ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY, MECHANISM OF ACTION OF SOME PHENOLIC ACIDS IN TRIACYLGLYCEROLS ... SÖFW/SOFW The autoxidation kinetics of triacylglycerols of soybean oil (TGSBO) in the presence of four different concentrations (0.02- 0.20%; 0.9-13.0x10-3M) of ferulic, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic, sinapic and caffeic acids, at 100°C was studied. The stabilization factor...view more The autoxidation kinetics of triacylglycerols of soybean oil (TGSBO) in the presence of four different concentrations (0.02- 0.20%; 0.9-13.0x10-3M) of ferulic, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic, sinapic and caffeic acids, at 100°C was studied. The stabilization factor (F) as a measure of effectiveness, the oxidation rate ratio (ORR) as a measure of strength, and the activity (A) which combines the above two factors were determined. The effectiveness, the strength and the activity of the phenolic acids... view less
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ANTIOXIDANTS AGAINST OXIDATIVE SKIN STRESS SÖFW/SOFW UVA und UVB-radiation, ozone, chemical oxidants and special microbes may induce the formation of reactive oxygen species and of other radicals. In order to prevent that these radicals may overwhelm the natural network of skin it is usefull to reinforce th...view more UVA und UVB-radiation, ozone, chemical oxidants and special microbes may induce the formation of reactive oxygen species and of other radicals. In order to prevent that these radicals may overwhelm the natural network of skin it is usefull to reinforce the antioxidants of the network (vitamin, vitamin C, ubiquinone, glutathion and enzymes) by suitable topical applied antioxidants. view less
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ANTIOXIDATIVE PENETRATION EFFICACY OF LIPOSOMALLY ENCAPSULATED COENZYME Q10 SÖFW/SOFW In cosmetics anti-ageing products are still of predominant significance. Due to the fact that oxidative stress plays a central role in the ageing process – chronological ageing and particularly photoageing – active ingredients which are effectively counte...view more In cosmetics anti-ageing products are still of predominant significance. Due to the fact that oxidative stress plays a central role in the ageing process – chronological ageing and particularly photoageing – active ingredients which are effectively counteracting oxidative stress phenomena are of special interest for the cosmetic market. view less
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APPLICATION OF A SKIN-IDENTICAL LIPID CONCENTRATE FOR ENHANCED SKIN MOISTURIZATION AND... SÖFW/SOFW The skin is our body’s covering, acting as a protector against physical, chemical and biological attack (1). To perform its protective task, the skin must have a resistant barrier. This barrier is provided by the »horny layer« stratum corneum (SC), the ou...view more The skin is our body’s covering, acting as a protector against physical, chemical and biological attack (1). To perform its protective task, the skin must have a resistant barrier. This barrier is provided by the »horny layer« stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis. The stratum corneum consists of anuclear flattened cells, the corneocytes, imbedded in a lipid mixture consisting mainly of a lamellar structure of ceramides... view less
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APPLICATION OF PFAFFIA SP., PTYCHOPETALUM OLACOIDES AND LILIUM CANDIDUM ASSOCIATED EXTRACT SÖFW/SOFW Periorbital disorders (POD), a cosmetic concern for a large number of individuals, are characterized by an alteration in the color and shape of eyelids, manifested by hyperpigmentation (»dark circles«) and puffiness, as a result of fat and fluid accumulat...view more Periorbital disorders (POD), a cosmetic concern for a large number of individuals, are characterized by an alteration in the color and shape of eyelids, manifested by hyperpigmentation (»dark circles«) and puffiness, as a result of fat and fluid accumulation. view less
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ARGANIA SPINOSA – RESEARCH FOR NEW COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS SÖFW/SOFW Not only should foreign cultures teach us traditional cosmetic uses; they should also reap the benefit of any economical development, directly for their own standard of living as well as via the maintenance of the local biotope. Argania spinosa is an ende...view more Not only should foreign cultures teach us traditional cosmetic uses; they should also reap the benefit of any economical development, directly for their own standard of living as well as via the maintenance of the local biotope. Argania spinosa is an endemic tree of Morocco. It is the only region in the world where this tree is growing. For centuries, it has been a source of income for the local populations. Today, the rationalization of the exploitation is vital for the survival ... view less
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BARRIER FUNCTION AND DRY SKIN: USE OF RHAMNOGALACTURONANS AS A NEW THERAPEUTIC STRATEGY SÖFW/SOFW Skin barrier function is ensured by the stratum corneum. Thanks to its strategic position as the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum protects underlying tissues from environmental aggressions. In order to face to constant aggressions, the epi...view more Skin barrier function is ensured by the stratum corneum. Thanks to its strategic position as the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum protects underlying tissues from environmental aggressions. In order to face to constant aggressions, the epidermis is required to undergo renewal to maintain a constant thickness and above all to renew a functional and effective protective layer on the surface.  view less
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BASIC REQUIREMENTS FOR SAFETY ASSESSMENTS OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS SÖFW/SOFW The safety assessment of cosmetic products has been anchored in European cosmetics legislation by Directive 93/35/EEC (6th amendment) to the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC. The provisions of Article 7a of this Directive are an important instrument for pro...view more The safety assessment of cosmetic products has been anchored in European cosmetics legislation by Directive 93/35/EEC (6th amendment) to the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC. The provisions of Article 7a of this Directive are an important instrument for protection from health impairments following the use of cosmetic products. view less
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BENEFITING SOCIETY THROUGH ORGANIC AND CERTIFIED PRODUCTS SÖFW/SOFW The development of natural and organic products is the trend in cosmetics and becoming more and more important. European countries developed different labels to differentiate between certified, controlled high quality products and non defined natural or o...view more The development of natural and organic products is the trend in cosmetics and becoming more and more important. European countries developed different labels to differentiate between certified, controlled high quality products and non defined natural or organic products. The combination of certified alpine plants grown organically, certified plant extracts, phytochemical research, sustainability and traceability is realized in PENTAPHARM’s ALP ORGANIC line. view less
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BIOACTIVE GLASSES AS A POTENTIAL NEW CLASS OF ANTI-OXIDATIVE INGREDIENTS FOR PERSONAL CARE SÖFW/SOFW Radicals formed on the skin, for example by exposure to UV-sunlight, can seriously damage cells and lead to the formation of wrinkles and premature skin aging. Currently, there are many effective organic active ingredients on the market, such as vitamins ...view more Radicals formed on the skin, for example by exposure to UV-sunlight, can seriously damage cells and lead to the formation of wrinkles and premature skin aging. Currently, there are many effective organic active ingredients on the market, such as vitamins C and E, as well as plant extracts such as green tea, grape seed and others. In most cases, these actives obtain their anti-oxidative efficacy by absorbing the existing radicals rather than inhibiting the formation of new radicals.  view less
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BIOAVAILABILITY OF COSMETIC ACTIVES – WHAT IT MEANS? SÖFW/SOFW In harmony with classical pharmacology and toxicology, the activity of each biologically active compound depends on two factors: the ability to reach a receptive system and evoke physiological effect in the result of interactions on the molecular level. I...view more In harmony with classical pharmacology and toxicology, the activity of each biologically active compound depends on two factors: the ability to reach a receptive system and evoke physiological effect in the result of interactions on the molecular level. It concerns also drugs and toxic substances applied on the skin or mucous membranes. view less
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BLACKBERRY LEAF EXTRACT: A NEW ANTI-AGING ACTIVE SÖFW/SOFW Through aging, the balance of synthesis and degradation of cutaneous extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins necessary for skin integrity and tissue regeneration becomes impaired (1). This results in a general loss of ECM of the dermis reflected by a decrease...view more Through aging, the balance of synthesis and degradation of cutaneous extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins necessary for skin integrity and tissue regeneration becomes impaired (1). This results in a general loss of ECM of the dermis reflected by a decreased number of fibroblasts, reduced levels of collagen and elastin as well as impaired organisation of collagen fibrils and elastic fibers leading to wrinkle formation and loss of elasticity and firmness. view less
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BORON NITRIDE – THE ACTIVE INERT WITH A VELVETY FEEL SÖFW/SOFW Not so many solid raw materials are used in cosmetics and those few mainly in make-up products. Reasons are very simple: the solid materials behavior strictly depends on the combination of its surface properties, its crystalline lattice characteristics (b...view more Not so many solid raw materials are used in cosmetics and those few mainly in make-up products. Reasons are very simple: the solid materials behavior strictly depends on the combination of its surface properties, its crystalline lattice characteristics (bulk properties) and of the chemical nature of such a substance, while for traditional non-solid cosmetic raw materials only the last one is important. view less
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BORON NITRIDE: MANY-SIDED QUALITIES FOR SKIN CARE APPLICATIONS SÖFW/SOFW Hexagonal boron nitride is a synthetic ceramic material in the forefront of technology. It can be obtained as a solid, a powder, a suspension or as sprayable fluid. Its uncommon properties as the high thermal conductivity, lubricating power, interference ...view more Hexagonal boron nitride is a synthetic ceramic material in the forefront of technology. It can be obtained as a solid, a powder, a suspension or as sprayable fluid. Its uncommon properties as the high thermal conductivity, lubricating power, interference with the light and opacifying effects, allow extended uses in many industrial fields (1). view less
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CAN NEW BIODEGRADABLE COMPLEXING AGENTS REPLACE TETRASODIUM EDTA TO BOOST PRESERVATIVES? SÖFW/SOFW The continuing discussion of cosmetic preservatives has limited the number of accepted actives that can be practically used. As a result, a number of different methods and materials are being used to boost the activity of the remaining acceptable preserva...view more The continuing discussion of cosmetic preservatives has limited the number of accepted actives that can be practically used. As a result, a number of different methods and materials are being used to boost the activity of the remaining acceptable preservative. A cosmetic preservative based on a combination of the active ingredient phenoxyethanol and the skin care additive and deodorant active ethylhexylglycerin can be used in many applications. view less
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CAPER BUD EXTRACT: A NEW TOOL AGAINST CUTANEOUS HYPERSENSITIVITY SÖFW/SOFW Skin tissue is constantly submitted to aggressions of all types leading to the classical symptoms such as redness, pain, feeling of discomfort, dry tightness, itching, burning or swelling. As inflammation is the most commonly found disorder in dermatology...view more Skin tissue is constantly submitted to aggressions of all types leading to the classical symptoms such as redness, pain, feeling of discomfort, dry tightness, itching, burning or swelling. As inflammation is the most commonly found disorder in dermatology, many products are now developed to treat sensitive or reactive skin. The soothing function has thus become inseparable from all claims put forward by cosmetic care today: anti-ageing, moisturising or even revitalizing or firming.  view less
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CHEMICAL AND ANTIMICROBIAL ANALYSIS OF FATTY OIL DERIVED FROM SEEDS OF DIOSPYROS MONTANA.. SÖFW/SOFW The fatty oil extracted from the seeds of the Diospyros montana Roxb was examined using GC-MS and GC FID method. The oil found to contain Myristic acid, Palmitic acid, Palmitoleic acid, Stearic acid, Oleic acid, Linoleic acid Linolenic acid Arachidic acid...view more The fatty oil extracted from the seeds of the Diospyros montana Roxb was examined using GC-MS and GC FID method. The oil found to contain Myristic acid, Palmitic acid, Palmitoleic acid, Stearic acid, Oleic acid, Linoleic acid Linolenic acid Arachidic acid and Behenic acid. The oil found inactive against E.Coli ,S.aureus, P. aeruginosa and C.albicans. view less
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CHILDREN’S AND BABY COSMETICS – PRODUCT SAFETY INFORMATION SÖFW/SOFW Cosmetic products are regulated in the European Union by the EC Cosmetics Directive and in Germany by the Food and Commodities Act as well as the German Cosmetics Regulations. These legal regulations already include several requirements meant to ensure th...view more Cosmetic products are regulated in the European Union by the EC Cosmetics Directive and in Germany by the Food and Commodities Act as well as the German Cosmetics Regulations. These legal regulations already include several requirements meant to ensure the safety specifically of those cosmetic products intended for babies and small children. These include for example special regulations on ingredients (usage bans and restrictions) as well as usage information and warnings. The special responsibi view less
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CITRUS, ROSE AND LAVENDER – NATURE-IDENTICAL FRAGRANCES FROM THE CHEMICAL LABORATORY SÖFW/SOFW For centuries, perfumers had to rely exclusively on natural fragrance components, some of which were extremely rare. The age of synthetic fragrances only began with the manufacture of vanillin (1874) and musk (1888). In the 1930s, BASF entered the aroma p...view more For centuries, perfumers had to rely exclusively on natural fragrance components, some of which were extremely rare. The age of synthetic fragrances only began with the manufacture of vanillin (1874) and musk (1888). In the 1930s, BASF entered the aroma production business with phenylethyl alcohol, a nature-identical component of rose oil with the fragrance of rosewood and rose leaves. view less
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CLINICAL STUDIES ON THE ANTI-IRRITATION EFFECTS OF MUNG BEAN (PHASEOLUS AUREUS) EXTRACT IN SÖFW/SOFW The aim of this study is to assess the anti-irritation activities of mung bean (Phaseolus aureus) extract against various irritants used in cosmetics.
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COLLAGEN REPAIR SÖFW/SOFW For its total function the skin needs the strength of intact collagen structure and the elasticity of elastin fibers. These chains of polypeptides may be decomposed by intensive UVradiation and by the corresponding enzymes collagenase and elastase. The ai...view more For its total function the skin needs the strength of intact collagen structure and the elasticity of elastin fibers. These chains of polypeptides may be decomposed by intensive UVradiation and by the corresponding enzymes collagenase and elastase. The aim of this project was to develop some complexes of active agents, which are able to regenerate the structure of collagen, damaged by intensive UV-radiation and inhibit the decomposition of elastin by elastase. view less
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COLOR UNIFORMITY ENHANCING EFFECTS OF DIMETHYL ISOSORBIDE IN DIHYDROXY ACETONE-CONTAINING. SÖFW/SOFW A clinical study was performed in which the skin color intensity and uniformity following a single application of dihydroxyacetone-containing creams was evaluated. Particular attention was given to the effect of the addition of dimethyl isosorbide on colo...view more A clinical study was performed in which the skin color intensity and uniformity following a single application of dihydroxyacetone-containing creams was evaluated. Particular attention was given to the effect of the addition of dimethyl isosorbide on color intensity and uniformity. view less
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COLOURFUL NATURAL MAKE UP SÖFW/SOFW Interest in Natural continues to grow. Cosmetic formula are more and more orientated towards natural raw materials from mineral and vegetable origin to meet the consumer’s demand. Ranges of natural dyes and pigments have been specially developed by LCW - ...view more Interest in Natural continues to grow. Cosmetic formula are more and more orientated towards natural raw materials from mineral and vegetable origin to meet the consumer’s demand. Ranges of natural dyes and pigments have been specially developed by LCW - Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Laboratories to create colourful natural makeup. Associated with natural surface treatment and innovative formulation techniques, they are the base for a new generation of natural cosmetic products. view less
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COLOURLESS CAROTENOIDS – AN EFFECTIVE ANTIOXIDATIVE SHIELD AGAINST PHOTOAGEING SÖFW/SOFW Carotenoids are natural colouring agents of a yellow to red colour. We currently know of more than 700 different natural carotenoids, but the most familiar of these are β-carotene, lycopene, lutein and astaxanthin. The new discovery among carotenoids are ...view more Carotenoids are natural colouring agents of a yellow to red colour. We currently know of more than 700 different natural carotenoids, but the most familiar of these are β-carotene, lycopene, lutein and astaxanthin. The new discovery among carotenoids are the colourless carotenoid precursors phytoene and phytofluene, which present a great number of advantages over the »classic« carotenoids. view less
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COMBINATION OF SULFURATED AMINO ACID DERIVATIVES WITH SEBOSTATIC AND ANTIOXIDANT EFFECTS SÖFW/SOFW An in vitro evaluation of antiaging activity was performed in order to demonstrate antioxidant and protecting activity against UVA on human keratinocytes cell cultures. Then, cosmetical functionality has been evaluated in volunteers with mild to severe se...view more An in vitro evaluation of antiaging activity was performed in order to demonstrate antioxidant and protecting activity against UVA on human keratinocytes cell cultures. Then, cosmetical functionality has been evaluated in volunteers with mild to severe seborrheic dermatitis or dandruff, either of a shampoo than of a cream containing the sulfurated amino acids derivatives. Decrease of sebum, dandruff and redness for acneic desease was determined by means of non-invasive methods. view less
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COMBINING CONVENIENCE AND SUSTAINABILITY: SIMPLE PROCESSING OF PEG-FREE NANOEMULSIONS AND. SÖFW/SOFW A new technology allows easy manufacturing of low-viscosity oil-inwater nanoemulsions without using ethoxylated emulsifiers, without applying heating or cooling steps and without using a homogenizer. The technology is based on a phase inversion process up...view more A new technology allows easy manufacturing of low-viscosity oil-inwater nanoemulsions without using ethoxylated emulsifiers, without applying heating or cooling steps and without using a homogenizer. The technology is based on a phase inversion process upon dilution with water. The resulting nanoemulsions are highly attractive as impregnating lotions for wet wipes. The possibilities and the mode of action of this new technology are highlighted in this article. view less
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COMPARATIVE STUDIES OF THREE NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS ON CAUCASIAN AND ASIAN SKIN SÖFW/SOFW Recent studies have demonstrated that there were distinct differences in the age of appearance and the rate of deterioration of signs of aging in age-matched groups of women from Asia and Europe. These differences concern wrinkles as well as age-associate...view more Recent studies have demonstrated that there were distinct differences in the age of appearance and the rate of deterioration of signs of aging in age-matched groups of women from Asia and Europe. These differences concern wrinkles as well as age-associated pigment spots. These published data showed that senescent spots occur earlier and are more pronounced on Asian skin. view less
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COMPLEX OF COSMETICAL ACTIVE AGENTS WITH THREEFOLD EFFECT SÖFW/SOFW Cosmetics claiming »without any preservation« are noticed by the user. We have reported several times that it is possible to protect cosmetical formulations against the decomposition by microbes by using substances which are not listed as preservatives so...view more Cosmetics claiming »without any preservation« are noticed by the user. We have reported several times that it is possible to protect cosmetical formulations against the decomposition by microbes by using substances which are not listed as preservatives so far and therefore would allow the claim »without any preservative«.  view less
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COMPOSITIONAL AND FUNCTIONALITY CHARACTERISTICS OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS ORIGINATING FROM... SÖFW/SOFW Northern plants offer a rich source of natural ingredients for a large number of functionalities in food, personal care and even in pharmaceutical products. Due to the severe climatic conditions, Arctic plants have developed a defence system to sustain lo...view more Northern plants offer a rich source of natural ingredients for a large number of functionalities in food, personal care and even in pharmaceutical products. Due to the severe climatic conditions, Arctic plants have developed a defence system to sustain low temperatures during the long winter season, as well as intensive UV exposure during the short summer period. view less
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COSMETIC ACTIVES FOR AN EFFICIENT TREATMENT OF AGE SPOTS SÖFW/SOFW Atest cream containing as active ingredients a combination of the soy isoflavone genistein with a cress sprouts extract standardized in sulforaphane was found to be very efficient in the treatment of age spots. This implies that the actives worked mainly ...view more Atest cream containing as active ingredients a combination of the soy isoflavone genistein with a cress sprouts extract standardized in sulforaphane was found to be very efficient in the treatment of age spots. This implies that the actives worked mainly in the spot area and did not induce a strong bleaching effect on the neighboring, normally pigmented skin. view less
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COSMETIC HABITS OF WOMEN LIVING IN THE ILE-DE-FRANCE AREA SÖFW/SOFW The aim of this project was to investigate the cosmetic products usage of a large sample of women from the Ile-de-France area. A study was conducted on 1.012 women aged between 18 and 70. The cosmetic habits of each volunteer were collected using a questi...view more The aim of this project was to investigate the cosmetic products usage of a large sample of women from the Ile-de-France area. A study was conducted on 1.012 women aged between 18 and 70. The cosmetic habits of each volunteer were collected using a questionnaire on sixty-five types of beauty products. view less
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COSMETIC HIGHWAYS: THE SURPRISE OF POLYETHYLENE POLYMERS SÖFW/SOFW Vintage molecules or puzzling rediscovery? Controlled polymerization of ethylene allow to obtain many raw materials, characterized by wide application ranges and unexpected performances. Their rheology in oil gels, structuring effects in pigmented emulsio...view more Vintage molecules or puzzling rediscovery? Controlled polymerization of ethylene allow to obtain many raw materials, characterized by wide application ranges and unexpected performances. Their rheology in oil gels, structuring effects in pigmented emulsions and sunscreens, film forming characteristics in compact powders and efficiency as suspended fillers provide the formulator with a new range of formulation strategy possibilities. Some examples of new applications are given. view less
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COSMETICS AND GENETICS: FACTS AND VISIONS SÖFW/SOFW It was only in 1965 that scientists found out that human genes work in exactly the same way as those found in bacteria. To allow an organism to exist countless substances have to be constantly produced and the genes control which substance is produced and...view more It was only in 1965 that scientists found out that human genes work in exactly the same way as those found in bacteria. To allow an organism to exist countless substances have to be constantly produced and the genes control which substance is produced and when. It is only a small step from from this finding through to intervention in this process – genetic engineering. view less
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