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"INFLUENCE OF LIPOSOMES ON THE PHOTOSTABILITY OF COENZYME Q10 IN CARBOMER GELS SÖFW/SOFW Active compounds can be protected against day light (UV radiation) induced degradation by their incorporation into liposomes and other colloidal carrier systems. Coenzyme Q10 (Q10) is a highly effective liposoluble non-enzymatic antioxidant which is used ...view more Active compounds can be protected against day light (UV radiation) induced degradation by their incorporation into liposomes and other colloidal carrier systems. Coenzyme Q10 (Q10) is a highly effective liposoluble non-enzymatic antioxidant which is used in cosmetic and dermato-pharmaceutical products because of its radical scavenger and bioenergetical properties. The aim of this study was to investigate the influence of colloidal carrier systems on the photostability of Q10... view less
(2004.11) ANTI-AGEING EFFICACY IN HAIR CARE PRODUCTS SÖFW/SOFW Age associated damage to hair has been examined to determine changes in hair cuticle health and hair cortex health, by measuring surface tryptophan and tensile characteristics respectively, using trials designed to mimic typical consumer behaviour. Ageing...view more Age associated damage to hair has been examined to determine changes in hair cuticle health and hair cortex health, by measuring surface tryptophan and tensile characteristics respectively, using trials designed to mimic typical consumer behaviour. Ageing effects have been prevented through the use of a unique keratin protein active, a purified form of keratin intermediate filament protein, which protects the hair cuticle and cortex through a sacrificial mechanism. view less
(2004.12) ALKYL-MODIFIED SILICONE WAXES AS CUSTOMIZED ADDITIVES FOR COSMETICS SÖFW/SOFW Cosmetic emulsions generally comprise an aqueous and an oily phase. Emulsions are very important throughout the cosmetics sector because they guarantee uniform distribution of both oil-soluble and water-soluble active agents. To stabilize cosmetic emulsio...view more Cosmetic emulsions generally comprise an aqueous and an oily phase. Emulsions are very important throughout the cosmetics sector because they guarantee uniform distribution of both oil-soluble and water-soluble active agents. To stabilize cosmetic emulsions and increase their viscosity, manufacturers use natural organic polymers (starch and cellulose derivatives), synthetic polymers (carbomers), inorganic gelling agents (silica, aluminum silicates) and also wax-like thickeners, such as long-chai view less
(2004.12) BIMODAL POLYMERS FOR NEXT GENERATION HAIR STYLING PRODUCTS SÖFW/SOFW The unique bimodal technology was initially designed to enhance hair styling products by improving hold performance in quick setting formulations but has also shown excellent performance properties in most hair styling formulations. The ability of SYNTRAN...view more The unique bimodal technology was initially designed to enhance hair styling products by improving hold performance in quick setting formulations but has also shown excellent performance properties in most hair styling formulations. The ability of SYNTRAN® bimodal polymers to balance simultaneously opposing properties can help formulators to produce hair fixative products designed to provide the effectiveness and aesthetic properties demanded ... view less
(2005.01) CONSEQUENCES OF THE 7TH AMENDMENT OF THE EU COSMETIC DIRECTIVE FOR NATURAL INGREDIENTS ... SÖFW/SOFW The Appendix III of the 7th Amendment of the EU Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC lists 26 new perfume and flavor substances. They are considered by the SCCNFP (Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products) to potentially cause contact alle...view more The Appendix III of the 7th Amendment of the EU Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC lists 26 new perfume and flavor substances. They are considered by the SCCNFP (Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-food Products) to potentially cause contact allergies. To protect consumers the legislation demands to indicate these substances as part of the INCI declaration on cosmetic packages if the concentration of each of these single substances exceeds 10 ppm (0.001%) in leave-on products ... view less
(2005.01) RESULTS OF TESTS WITH NEW COMBINATIONS OF ACTIVE AGENTS SÖFW/SOFW In order to formulate optimal cosmetics not only raw and auxiliary materials are necessary but also active agents. For understanding their mode of actions the composition of epidermis, dermis and subcutis has to be considered. According to these compositi...view more In order to formulate optimal cosmetics not only raw and auxiliary materials are necessary but also active agents. For understanding their mode of actions the composition of epidermis, dermis and subcutis has to be considered. According to these compositions the lipids and amino acids which are topically applied have to penetrate into the epidermis in order to protect and to strengthen the skin barriere located in the upper skin layer ( stratum corneum) and by this to keep the natural humidy... view less
(2005.01) STUDY CONCERNING THE USE OF HERBAL RAW MATERIALS IN THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY SÖFW/SOFW Herbal raw materials present important starting compounds for the cosmetic industry because oil seeds are used as basic substances and medicinal and aroma plants contribute to the aroma and cosmetic effect of cosmetic products. In spite of the undisputedl...view more Herbal raw materials present important starting compounds for the cosmetic industry because oil seeds are used as basic substances and medicinal and aroma plants contribute to the aroma and cosmetic effect of cosmetic products. In spite of the undisputedly high importance of plant materials as basic substances in the cosmetic industry, inquiries indicated that no up-to-date surveys concerning the use of herbal raw materials cultivatable under domestic conditions are available. view less
(2005.01) THE ORIGINAL YLANG-YLANG OIL FROM THE PHILIPPINES SÖFW/SOFW The tree Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook. f. & T. Thompson (Canangium odoratum Baill.) of the family of Annonaceae, occurs in 2 forms, e.g. macrophylla and genuina. On steam distillation, the flowers of the former yield essential oil of cananga, the latter oi...view more The tree Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook. f. & T. Thompson (Canangium odoratum Baill.) of the family of Annonaceae, occurs in 2 forms, e.g. macrophylla and genuina. On steam distillation, the flowers of the former yield essential oil of cananga, the latter oil of ylang-ylang. Cananga odorata is probably a native of the Moluccas or of the Philippine Islands, where it was once extensively cultivated, particularly near Manila, for the production of ylang-ylang essential oil. view less
(2005.03) A BETTER WAY TO GET THE PROPERTIES OF HYALURONIC ACID ON DRY SKIN STATE SÖFW/SOFW Dry skin or skin dryness is a common skin surface disturbance experienced by most of us at some time. Clinically, dry skin is defined as a dry, less flexible, scaly and rough aspect of the upper layers of the epidermis. In more severe cases of dryness, a ...view more Dry skin or skin dryness is a common skin surface disturbance experienced by most of us at some time. Clinically, dry skin is defined as a dry, less flexible, scaly and rough aspect of the upper layers of the epidermis. In more severe cases of dryness, a condition described by the dermatologist as xerosis, fissuring, scaling and cracking may occur. A few people are often afflicted with skin dryness and almost all individuals suffer from dry skin as they grow older. In fact, dry skin is a mass... view less
(2005.03) DRY WATER FOR THE SKIN SÖFW/SOFW Dry water is a powder with a water content of up to 95% by weight. It is formed through intensive mixing of water with hydrophobic fumed silicon dioxide. During this process, the solid particles wrap around the water droplets, preventing them from coalesc...view more Dry water is a powder with a water content of up to 95% by weight. It is formed through intensive mixing of water with hydrophobic fumed silicon dioxide. During this process, the solid particles wrap around the water droplets, preventing them from coalescing. First attempts to use Dry Water as a cosmetic base go back to the 1960’s (1-3). In the 1990’s the concept was further developed, mainly by Japanese cosmetics companies (4-7). This article provides a detailed overview on the manufacture... view less
(2005.03) TEXTURE MODIFICATION AS A TOOL FOR MODERN FORMULATION DESIGN SÖFW/SOFW A thorough understanding of emulsion textures and how these can be modified is essential for creating skin care formulations that fulfil the customers’ requirements, match marketing claims and can be well differentiated from competitor’s products. The ing...view more A thorough understanding of emulsion textures and how these can be modified is essential for creating skin care formulations that fulfil the customers’ requirements, match marketing claims and can be well differentiated from competitor’s products. The ingredients of a formulation are important in defining the texture and can be modified to give the target texture. To this end, the effect of a novel consistency wax on the texture is discussed, along with that of a polymeric gellant and select ... view less
(2005.04) AMARANTH SEED OIL – ANTI-INFLAMMATORY EFFECTS ON PSORIASIS VULGARISAND DERMATITIS ATOPICA SÖFW/SOFW Amaranth (Amaranthus caudatus) is one of the oldest useful plants of the world. The name Amaranthus originates from the Greek language and means »immortal« or »unfading«. The plant is assigned to the foxtail family of plants and is therefore often referre...view more Amaranth (Amaranthus caudatus) is one of the oldest useful plants of the world. The name Amaranthus originates from the Greek language and means »immortal« or »unfading«. The plant is assigned to the foxtail family of plants and is therefore often referred to as pseudo cereal. Already thousands of years ago it was a staple crop of South American populations and was revered as a holy plant by the Incas and the Aztecs. view less
(2005.04) MILLET OIL FOR SKIN AND HAIR CARE SÖFW/SOFW Millet is a general term for a wide range of smallseeded annual grasses that have been grown for thousands of years on all continents. Even today, millets are still the main source of food in some countries in Asia and Africa. Millet seeds are relatively ...view more Millet is a general term for a wide range of smallseeded annual grasses that have been grown for thousands of years on all continents. Even today, millets are still the main source of food in some countries in Asia and Africa. Millet seeds are relatively rich in oil and contain essential fatty acids and exogenous essential amino acids as well as different mineral substances. view less
(2005.04) SODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, AN EMULSIFYING AGENT FOR COLD PRODUCTION OF O/W EMULSIONS SÖFW/SOFW Modern manufacturing practices require effective, time and costs saving production processes. In this context the cold production of emulsions, which avoids laborious and energy-intensive heating and cooling phases, is always in discussion. In practice, t...view more Modern manufacturing practices require effective, time and costs saving production processes. In this context the cold production of emulsions, which avoids laborious and energy-intensive heating and cooling phases, is always in discussion. In practice, this concept presented the formulator with some major issues regarding stability of the emulsions which up to now have not been completely resolved. The emulsifying systems presented to the industry so far generally require a very precise ... view less
(2010.01/02) MEASURING SKIN ABSORPTION IN VITRO SÖFW/SOFW To measure skin absortion in vitro, different setups and skin from different species ( e.g.human or animal skin) preparations may be used, depending on the scientific question under investigation. Moreover, there are different ways to prepare the tissue, ...view more To measure skin absortion in vitro, different setups and skin from different species ( e.g.human or animal skin) preparations may be used, depending on the scientific question under investigation. Moreover, there are different ways to prepare the tissue, to conduct the actual experiment, and also to present and to analyse the obtained data, e.g.either to provide information on skin permeation or penetration. view less
(2011.04) Evonik And Azelis Launch A Unique Concept “Powder To Cream” At In-Cosmetics 2011 Evonik Corporation Silica Press Release: At this year’s In-Cosmetics in Milan, Italy, Evonik’s Business Unit Inorganic Materials and its distributor Azelis introduced a new and novel technology that could revolutionize applications for color cosmetics, skin and sun care, as well ...view more Press Release: At this year’s In-Cosmetics in Milan, Italy, Evonik’s Business Unit Inorganic Materials and its distributor Azelis introduced a new and novel technology that could revolutionize applications for color cosmetics, skin and sun care, as well as hair styling products. view less
11 Tips for Stabilizing Sunless Tanning Formulations George Deckner This short expert article by personal care formulator George Deckner discusses dihydroxyacetone (DHA), the active in sunless tanning formulations. Includes 11 tips for stabilizing sunless tanning formulations, including ingredients to avoid, suggestions f...view more This short expert article by personal care formulator George Deckner discusses dihydroxyacetone (DHA), the active in sunless tanning formulations. Includes 11 tips for stabilizing sunless tanning formulations, including ingredients to avoid, suggestions for specific stabilizers and more. view less
25% T-80SA for SPF 50 Sunjin Beauty Science (formerly Sunjin Chemical) Ecocert guideline formula – SPF 50 & meet EU UVA protection guideline. T-80, with25% for SPF 50 & 12% for SPF30.
4-METHYL-4-PHENYL-2-PENTANOL – A NEW DEODORANT ACTIVE SÖFW/SOFW The present article relates to investigations on the antimicrobial properties of newly synthesized 4-methyl-4-aryl-2-pentanols. These compounds exhibit interesting antimicrobial activity profiles.
5 Ways to Reduce Formula Cost & Keep Consumers Happy Perry Romanowski Industry expert, Perry Romanowski, describes five strategies you can use to reduce the cost of your formulas without significantly impacting performance and aesthetics. These include eliminating unnecessary ingredients, reducing the level of claims ingred...view more Industry expert, Perry Romanowski, describes five strategies you can use to reduce the cost of your formulas without significantly impacting performance and aesthetics. These include eliminating unnecessary ingredients, reducing the level of claims ingredients, reducing the fragrance level, finding less-expensive alternative ingredients and increasing the solvent level. view less
50 Years of Skincare Innovations George Deckner Personal care and cosmetic industry expert, George Deckner, explains some breakthroughs in skincare innovations throughout the past 50 years. Learn about how xanthan gum, carbopol, hydrophobically modified polymers, silicone cross-linked gels, fundamental...view more Personal care and cosmetic industry expert, George Deckner, explains some breakthroughs in skincare innovations throughout the past 50 years. Learn about how xanthan gum, carbopol, hydrophobically modified polymers, silicone cross-linked gels, fundamental understanding of lamellar gel networks, vesicular delivery systems, avobenzone, niacinamide, alpha hydroxy acids, peptides and more have impacted the world of skincare. view less
7 Ingredients That Cross Industries Priscilla Taylor This collaborative article by personal care expert Priscilla Taylor and food expert Jill Frank takes a look at 7 ingredients that are used in both industries for very different purposes. Includes perspectives on olive oil, glycerin/glycerol, spirulina, be...view more This collaborative article by personal care expert Priscilla Taylor and food expert Jill Frank takes a look at 7 ingredients that are used in both industries for very different purposes. Includes perspectives on olive oil, glycerin/glycerol, spirulina, beeswax. cocoa butter, zinc oxide and oatmeal. view less
7 Non Formulating Skills Every Formulating Chemist Needs Perry Romanowski Working in the cosmetic industry as a scientist means you will have to do more than just know the right raw materials to use for any given application and the methods for putting those together. To be successful in a cosmetic science career you’ll have to...view more Working in the cosmetic industry as a scientist means you will have to do more than just know the right raw materials to use for any given application and the methods for putting those together. To be successful in a cosmetic science career you’ll have to also develop a general knowledge of the business aspects of creating cosmetics and some good people skills. Here are seven of the most useful skills you can’t find in a chemistry book but that will be critical for success in your career. Read this article by industry expert Perry Romanowski to learn more. view less
9 Cosmetic Ingredients that Actually Work Perry Romanowski There are a lot of ingredients in cosmetics that are said to “work” for all kinds of benefits like curing wrinkles, reducing the size of pores, skin lightening and more. Read expert author Perry Romanowski's article covering top products and ingredients i...view more There are a lot of ingredients in cosmetics that are said to “work” for all kinds of benefits like curing wrinkles, reducing the size of pores, skin lightening and more. Read expert author Perry Romanowski's article covering top products and ingredients including DHA, depilatories, petrolatum, moisturizers, cleansing products, alpha hydroxy acids, hydroquinone, sunscreens, retinoic acid and salicylic acid. view less
A 3D HUMAN SKIN MODEL AS AN IN VITRO TEST SYSTEM SÖFW/SOFW The basic principle of tissue engineering is to isolate and grow cells of human or animal origin while retaining cell functionality. These organoid cell cultures are used as in vitro test systems for initial characterization of a substance. They also make...view more The basic principle of tissue engineering is to isolate and grow cells of human or animal origin while retaining cell functionality. These organoid cell cultures are used as in vitro test systems for initial characterization of a substance. They also make it possible to find answers to complex medical questions and can serve as a precursor to animal experiments for testing substances in the medical technology, cosmetic, pharmaceutical and chemical industries. view less
A COMBINED METHODOLOGY FOR THE RAPID SCREENING OF STRUCTURAL INGREDIENTS FOR DISPERSE... SÖFW/SOFW The main purpose of the study is to build an analytical methodology which enables formulation chemists to choose the most suitable structural ingredient (e.g. emulsifier, rheology modifier) for a formulation basing their decisions on objective evaluations...view more The main purpose of the study is to build an analytical methodology which enables formulation chemists to choose the most suitable structural ingredient (e.g. emulsifier, rheology modifier) for a formulation basing their decisions on objective evaluations and without the need for protracted stability testing. The methodology includes the techniques of particle size measurements, steady and dynamic state rheology evaluations, optical microscopy analysis and centrifuge tests. view less
A COMPLEX OF BOTANICAL INGREDIENTS MANAGING IMPURE SKIN SÖFW/SOFW A novel product based on botanical ingredients, here called CBMM Complex (Trade Name: Cutipure CLR™) showing potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial features, has been found to effectively manage impure skin, with a special focus on comedones, pimples,...view more A novel product based on botanical ingredients, here called CBMM Complex (Trade Name: Cutipure CLR™) showing potent anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial features, has been found to effectively manage impure skin, with a special focus on comedones, pimples, and pustules. view less
A DIFFERENT APPROACH TO LIFTING EFFICACY BASED ON A NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENT SÖFW/SOFW Facial contouring, firming of double chins, body firming and anti-wrinkle have become strong claims of the antiageing care market. A new solution from Gattefossé research targets the dermal network and its physiological plasticity. Spilanthes acmellaplant...view more Facial contouring, firming of double chins, body firming and anti-wrinkle have become strong claims of the antiageing care market. A new solution from Gattefossé research targets the dermal network and its physiological plasticity. Spilanthes acmellaplant extract offers key benefits for the next generation of anti-age applications. It exhibits powerful activity to stimulate, reorganize and strengthen the collagen network. view less
A Formulation Strategy For High SPF Croda This presentation outlines a strategy for achieving high SPF in sunscreen formulations by making use of an aqueous inorganic sunscreen dispersion alongside oil-soluble organic UV filters. This approach allows for optimum distribution of the active ingredi...view more This presentation outlines a strategy for achieving high SPF in sunscreen formulations by making use of an aqueous inorganic sunscreen dispersion alongside oil-soluble organic UV filters. This approach allows for optimum distribution of the active ingredients in the formulation and on the skin, and also minimises any potential negative interactions. It is important to select appropriate emollients to solubilise the organic filters, and examples of suitable solvents will be presented. view less
A HYDROPHILIC EMOLLIENT FOR AQUEOUS AND AQUEOUS/ALCOHOL-BASED COSMETIC PREPARATIONS SÖFW/SOFW This article describes a new hydrophilic emollient for use in aqueous and aqueous/ alcohol- based cosmetic preparations. Product efficacy is documented by means of an in-vivo application study. Formulations are presented that demonstrate the broad range o...view more This article describes a new hydrophilic emollient for use in aqueous and aqueous/ alcohol- based cosmetic preparations. Product efficacy is documented by means of an in-vivo application study. Formulations are presented that demonstrate the broad range of applications for this hydrophilic emollient. view less
A MINERAL OIL-FREE EMULSIFIER BLEND FOR W/O EMULSIONS SÖFW/SOFW Due to the increasing percentage of people with dry skin in the population W/O formulations gain more and more importance. This article describes a mineral oil-free emulsifier blend which facilitates the technical production of this product type. In addit...view more Due to the increasing percentage of people with dry skin in the population W/O formulations gain more and more importance. This article describes a mineral oil-free emulsifier blend which facilitates the technical production of this product type. In addition it is possible to develop new formulations, which do not show the negative product properties classic W/O creams are known for.  view less
A Method for Optimizing Cosmetic Raw Material Levels Perry Romanowski This article by personal care and cosmetics industry expert, Perry Romanowski, discusses an informative method for optimizing cosmetic raw material levels. He explains the details of this method including starting a formula, making a batch, testing, and ...view more This article by personal care and cosmetics industry expert, Perry Romanowski, discusses an informative method for optimizing cosmetic raw material levels. He explains the details of this method including starting a formula, making a batch, testing, and optimizing raw material. view less
A Modern View on Stabilisation Mechanisms of Cosmetic Emulsions BASF Principally, cosmetic emulsions follow the classical rules of stability which are driven by Stoke's law and the theories of attractive and repulsive forces. Modern analytical and physico-chemical tools allow new insights into the characterization and opti...view more Principally, cosmetic emulsions follow the classical rules of stability which are driven by Stoke's law and the theories of attractive and repulsive forces. Modern analytical and physico-chemical tools allow new insights into the characterization and optimization of emulsions. For example, by adopting inter-facial tension measurements to find the most beneficial emulsifier mixtures and manufacturing process. Process developments of high pressure emulsification, cold manufacture or phrase inversion technology enlarge the portfolio of manufacturing stable emulsions. In addition, new emulsifier-free, polymer stabilized systems and Pickering emulsions for pigmented emulsions are discussed. view less
A NEW ACCELERATOR AND LONG-LASTING TANNING PATENTED PEPTIDE SÖFW/SOFW In the 20th century a new trend started which has grown throughout the years until our days: the tanning culture. Nowadays, people spend hours under the sun or in the tanning salons to get their longed sun-kissed skin as tanned skin has become a symbol of...view more In the 20th century a new trend started which has grown throughout the years until our days: the tanning culture. Nowadays, people spend hours under the sun or in the tanning salons to get their longed sun-kissed skin as tanned skin has become a symbol of health and beauty. The genetically constitutive skin colour and tan is determined by the skin level of the melanin biopolymer pigment.  view less
A NEW ANALYTICAL METHOD FOR DETERMINATION OF SECONDARY ALKANOLAMINES IMPURITIES IN PRIMARY SÖFW/SOFW A new analytical method has been set-up for the selective determination of a secondary alkanolamine (diethanolamine (DEA)) in tertiary and primary alkanolamines commercial samples (triethanolamine (TEA) and monoethanolamine (MEA)). In fact, the European l...view more A new analytical method has been set-up for the selective determination of a secondary alkanolamine (diethanolamine (DEA)) in tertiary and primary alkanolamines commercial samples (triethanolamine (TEA) and monoethanolamine (MEA)). In fact, the European law poses precise restrictions to the maximum allowed concentrations of secondary alkanolamines in the raw materials and in the finished products. The proposed analytical method makes use of ion chromatography interfaced with mass spectrometry. view less
A NEW APPROACH OF DRY SKIN: USE OF A REGULATOR OF THE EPIDERMAL CIRCULATING HYDRATION... SÖFW/SOFW The epidermal hydration results from two regulation systems. On one hand, a dynamic system is responsible for the water circulation from the dermis towards the skin surface. This water transport is ensured by aquaporins-3, water channels located in kerati...view more The epidermal hydration results from two regulation systems. On one hand, a dynamic system is responsible for the water circulation from the dermis towards the skin surface. This water transport is ensured by aquaporins-3, water channels located in keratinocyte membranes. On the other hand, a static system, composed at least of hyaluronic acid, improves the water holding capacity of the epidermis. view less
A NEW APPROACH TO ANTI-AGING SKIN CARE – BIOLOGY, TECHNOLOGY AND PSYCHOLOGY SÖFW/SOFW The human eye is a superb contrast meter and, indeed, when viewing the skin of an ageing human face, the eye is drawn to the areas of highest luminance contrast – uneven topography and high colour contrast. To a large degree, our perception of age and att...view more The human eye is a superb contrast meter and, indeed, when viewing the skin of an ageing human face, the eye is drawn to the areas of highest luminance contrast – uneven topography and high colour contrast. To a large degree, our perception of age and attractiveness is dependent upon these features. view less
A NEW APPROACH TO ANTI-AGING SKIN CARE: THE IMPORTANCE OF CONTROLLING MAST CELL TRYPTASE.. SÖFW/SOFW Aging is a basic biological process characteristic of all living organisms influenced by several factors. The aging skin is characterized by the skin wrinkling, laxicity, and pigmentation induced by several environmental stress factors. Cutaneous aging is...view more Aging is a basic biological process characteristic of all living organisms influenced by several factors. The aging skin is characterized by the skin wrinkling, laxicity, and pigmentation induced by several environmental stress factors. Cutaneous aging is classified into two main categories: intrinsic aging, which is genetically determined and extrinsic aging caused by environmental exposure, mainly UV light. view less
A NEW BIOLOGICALLY COMPATIBLE PHYSICAL SUNSCREEN WITH SKIN FIRMING PROPERTIES SÖFW/SOFW A new skin-friendly micro-dispersed mineral active, belonging to the Hydroxyapatites group, has been discovered. It is able to enhance UV-B ray protection significantly. Its performances are comparable or even superior to those of Titanium dioxide, withou...view more A new skin-friendly micro-dispersed mineral active, belonging to the Hydroxyapatites group, has been discovered. It is able to enhance UV-B ray protection significantly. Its performances are comparable or even superior to those of Titanium dioxide, without any blue-white appearance and at a lower cost of the formula. Moreover, it does not react with dibenzoylmethane UVA sunscreens. view less
A NEW BIOPOLYMER FOR REFRESHMENT SÖFW/SOFW The discovery of rhizobian gum comes from agronomical research, and the study of microorganisms living in the soil in symbiosis with the plants. A specific microorganism identified as a Rhizobium bacterium lives in contact with the roots of sunflower. Thi...view more The discovery of rhizobian gum comes from agronomical research, and the study of microorganisms living in the soil in symbiosis with the plants. A specific microorganism identified as a Rhizobium bacterium lives in contact with the roots of sunflower. This bacterium is gram-negative, catalase-negative, and oxydase-positive. In time of draught, the polymer synthesized by the bacterium forms a film around the root.  view less
A NEW BROAD SPECTRUM PRESERVATIVE FOR DIFFICULT-TO-PROTECT PERSONAL CARE FORMULATIONS SÖFW/SOFW Optiphen MIT Ultra is a patent pending liquid preservative blend of MIT with a booster that can be found naturally in flowers and fruits, such as strawberries, bilberries and blackberries. The booster component serves to broaden the activi - ty profile of...view more Optiphen MIT Ultra is a patent pending liquid preservative blend of MIT with a booster that can be found naturally in flowers and fruits, such as strawberries, bilberries and blackberries. The booster component serves to broaden the activi - ty profile of MIT against bacteria, yeast and mould. Historically, formulators have had to rely on formaldehyde donors or halogen based chemistry when faced with challenging formulations. view less
A NEW CONCEPT APPROACH TOWARDS ANTI-AGING COSMETICS SÖFW/SOFW The usage of anti-aging claims in newly marketed products is still a leading trend for cosmetic products. Remarkable in that respect is the recurrent combination of anti-aging claims with the usage of pearlescent pigments. The PassionAge formulation conce...view more The usage of anti-aging claims in newly marketed products is still a leading trend for cosmetic products. Remarkable in that respect is the recurrent combination of anti-aging claims with the usage of pearlescent pigments. The PassionAge formulation concept takes a closer look at these findings and demonstrates how to utilize pearlescent pigments in order to optically fulfil consumers' expectation of antiaging products. view less
A NEW CONCEPT TO BOOST THE PRESERVATIVE EFFICACY OF PHENOXYETHANOL SÖFW/SOFW A new cosmetic preservative for leave-on products based on a combination of the active ingredient phenoxyethanol and the skin care additive and deodorant active ethylhexylglycerin is presented. Ethylhexylglycerin boosts the antimicrobial activity of pheno...view more A new cosmetic preservative for leave-on products based on a combination of the active ingredient phenoxyethanol and the skin care additive and deodorant active ethylhexylglycerin is presented. Ethylhexylglycerin boosts the antimicrobial activity of phenoxyethanol. Properties, antimicrobial activity and a possible mechanism of action are discussed. view less
A NEW COSMETIC ACTIVE FOR SAFE SKIN BRIGHTENING SÖFW/SOFW The use of skin brighteners vary between cultures and races. In Western countries, skin brightening agents are applied for the treatment of hyperpigmented spots and the production of an evener skin tone. In Asia, the use of skin brighteners is widely exte...view more The use of skin brighteners vary between cultures and races. In Western countries, skin brightening agents are applied for the treatment of hyperpigmented spots and the production of an evener skin tone. In Asia, the use of skin brighteners is widely extended; lighter skin is a desirable feature and it is considered a symbol of beauty and femininity. Skin brightening products face a worldwide market and its intended uses range from genuine therapy to beauty-enhancing products. view less
A NEW FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENT ABLE TO BUILD UP FLUID SYSTEM ON THE BASIS OF OLIVE OIL SÖFW/SOFW Olive oil, among all the natural lipids, is the one showing the highest compatibility with our skin: the innovative idea is combining all the precious virtues of olive oil with interesting cosmetic functionalities, such as the emulsifying ability as in th...view more Olive oil, among all the natural lipids, is the one showing the highest compatibility with our skin: the innovative idea is combining all the precious virtues of olive oil with interesting cosmetic functionalities, such as the emulsifying ability as in their speficic case. The importance of the right emulsifier is generally recognised: the structure, the stability, the safety profile of a final product greatly depend on the chosen emulsifier. Today also the sensoriality of the cream is ... view less
A NEW GENERATION OF MILD PERSONAL CLEANSING PRODUCTS PROVIDING SKIN MOISTURE SÖFW/SOFW Clear personal care formulations containing cleansing surfactants combined with substantial amounts of oils have been shown to be extremely mild to the skin while providing good cleansing properties and a considerable moisturizing effect. Such cleansing f...view more Clear personal care formulations containing cleansing surfactants combined with substantial amounts of oils have been shown to be extremely mild to the skin while providing good cleansing properties and a considerable moisturizing effect. Such cleansing formulations can be made using an ethersulfate MIPA-salt and a castor oil derivative.  view less
A NEW HYDROPHYLIC ANTIOXIDANT FROM TAMARINDUS INDICA SÖFW/SOFW A high molecular weight part of Tamarindus indica seed husk extract containing purified natural complex of branched polysaccharide with polyphenolic components (Polyant-T) was evaluated for its antioxidant efficiency.
A NOVEL CARRIER SYSTEM FOR COSMETIC APPLICATION SÖFW/SOFW In the last decades many different carrier systems for cosmetic applications have been developed. This study introduces a novel carrier system for cosmetic applications based on natural ingredients only, named NanoSolve. The Nano- Solve principle allows t...view more In the last decades many different carrier systems for cosmetic applications have been developed. This study introduces a novel carrier system for cosmetic applications based on natural ingredients only, named NanoSolve. The Nano- Solve principle allows the production of transparent emulsions with particle sizes of approximately 100 nm for a variety of lipids or lipophilic actives. view less
A NOVEL EX VIVO PIG SKIN ORGAN CULTURE MODEL FOR EFFICACY AND SAFETY TESTING SÖFW/SOFW Although the testing of finished products on animals has long been banned as a consequence of the implementation of the EU Directives and consumer demand for ethical-driven products, the cosmetics industry is still far from being equipped with a repertoir...view more Although the testing of finished products on animals has long been banned as a consequence of the implementation of the EU Directives and consumer demand for ethical-driven products, the cosmetics industry is still far from being equipped with a repertoire of efficient screening alternatives. view less
A NOVEL PEG-FREE EMULSIFIER DESIGNED FOR FORMULATING W/O LOTIONS WITH A LIGHT SKIN FEEL SÖFW/SOFW Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions offer a series of significant benefits compared to traditional oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. By forming an occlusive layer on the skin they are efficiently reducing the evaporative water loss from the skin. Thus they are widel...view more Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions offer a series of significant benefits compared to traditional oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. By forming an occlusive layer on the skin they are efficiently reducing the evaporative water loss from the skin. Thus they are widely used in formulations targeting the needs of the consumer with dry skin. Moreover, their excellent water repellency makes them a very attractive formulation basis for sun care and color cosmetics formulations. Despite of these attractive... view less
A New Technology to Bring Efficacy to Make Up Formulation - Abstract BASF Today make-up formulations have reached a stage close to perfection thanks to the developments in pigments and polymers technology. A wide range of cosmetic properties – from long lasting to easy wear is achievable, every shade of colors and all type of l...view more Today make-up formulations have reached a stage close to perfection thanks to the developments in pigments and polymers technology. A wide range of cosmetic properties – from long lasting to easy wear is achievable, every shade of colors and all type of light effects can be attained. Until now, introduction of water-soluble active in make-up was strictly limited to emulsions excluding anhydrous formulation because of raw materials incompatibilities and process restrictions. A breakthrough has been made possible by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques with the development of the innovative technology of Active Powder. It enables the incorporation of water soluble active in anhydrous formulation, to broaden the range of care claim that can be made with color products. Up to 63% of a water solution of active ingredient can be delivered via a powder form. view less
A RELIABLE ALTERNATIVE FOR TRADITIONAL PRESERVATIVE SYSTEMS SÖFW/SOFW Cosmetic preservation is increasingly under pressure. Industry sensitivity towards the toxicology of biocides has been raised. Europe and the U.S. have started re-evaluating the safety of cosmetic preservatives. As more cosmetic manufacturers want to go »...view more Cosmetic preservation is increasingly under pressure. Industry sensitivity towards the toxicology of biocides has been raised. Europe and the U.S. have started re-evaluating the safety of cosmetic preservatives. As more cosmetic manufacturers want to go »global«, the public debate around the world regarding traditional cosmetic preservatives limits the options available to cosmetic manufacturers. Cosmetic formulators are realising the need for alternative approaches to product protection. view less
A REVIEW OF EDELWEISS SÖFW/SOFW Endangered species are one of the largest worries for any of us concerned about the future of certain precious plants. Techniques vary and cell culture is one method that was examined to preserve edelweiss (1). Following demands by drug, food and cosmetic...view more Endangered species are one of the largest worries for any of us concerned about the future of certain precious plants. Techniques vary and cell culture is one method that was examined to preserve edelweiss (1). Following demands by drug, food and cosmetics industries, attempts have been made, since 1995, to cultivate edelweiss ( Leontopodium alpinum) in Bruson (Valais, Switzerland, 1100 m a.s.l.). Some growers in the neighbouring mountains also tested this new crop ... view less
A SAFE AND EFFICIENT SUNSCREEN PROTECTION SÖFW/SOFW Sun protection is still a very emotional subject and is a popular topic for discussion in both our private lives and also in the media and science. More often than not people are split into two sunscreen categories – the users and the non-users. We will s...view more Sun protection is still a very emotional subject and is a popular topic for discussion in both our private lives and also in the media and science. More often than not people are split into two sunscreen categories – the users and the non-users. We will show briefly in this article why it is necessary and possible to use reliable systems that are easy and pleasant to apply and do not represent a risk for the consumer. view less
A SMART CYCLOPEPTIDE MIMICS THE RGD CONTAINING CELL ADHESION PROTEINS AT THE RIGHT SITE SÖFW/SOFW Large proteins and small peptides are well known as attractive ingredients for cosmetics. On skin, peptides regulate the activity of many biological processes. Several single natural amino acids originating from biodegradation processes of peptides, are d...view more Large proteins and small peptides are well known as attractive ingredients for cosmetics. On skin, peptides regulate the activity of many biological processes. Several single natural amino acids originating from biodegradation processes of peptides, are deemed to produce positive effects on skin, hair, and nails. view less
A SOLUTION TO INFLAMMATORY BY A NEW HOLISTIC APPROACH SÖFW/SOFW Today, we are in a society where the feeling of well-being is becoming more and more important. The plant extract Tephrosia purpureabelongs to these new Neurocosmétique actives which turn your creams into feel-good products. Neurocosmétique came into bein...view more Today, we are in a society where the feeling of well-being is becoming more and more important. The plant extract Tephrosia purpureabelongs to these new Neurocosmétique actives which turn your creams into feel-good products. Neurocosmétique came into being thanks to the discovery that every skin cell is capable of synthesizing neurotransmitters and more particularly that keratinocytes synthesize beta-endorphin, the life-enhancing molecule. This molecule is for example responsible for the ... view less
A USER FRIENDLY AND RELIABLE ECVAM VALIDATED IN VITRO SKIN IRRITATION 42 BIS PROTOCOL SÖFW/SOFW Current European cosmetics and chemicals legislation (REACh: Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals, June 2007) prescribed the use of alternative methods to animal testing (1). In addition, the 7th Amendment to the EU Cosmeti...view more Current European cosmetics and chemicals legislation (REACh: Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals, June 2007) prescribed the use of alternative methods to animal testing (1). In addition, the 7th Amendment to the EU Cosmetics Directive, Directive 76/768/ECC, decrees a complete ban on animal testing for cosmetic ingredients and finished products. view less
A WELL-FORMULATED SUNSCREEN FOR THE RIGHT PROTECTION SÖFW/SOFW Because of the pathological effects of UV radiation on the skin there is a great need for highly-protective and also with regard to contact allergies and light dermatosis safe sunscreens. Consumers want to be sure that they are well protected while being ...view more Because of the pathological effects of UV radiation on the skin there is a great need for highly-protective and also with regard to contact allergies and light dermatosis safe sunscreens. Consumers want to be sure that they are well protected while being in the sun for sun bathing or during swimming or other sporting activities. UV filters (UV-absorbent or reflective substances) protect the skin against damage such as sunburn, premature aging, skin cancer and UV light-induced sensitivity. view less
A WORLD OF WELLNESS IN BEIJING SÖFW/SOFW The 8th World Congress of the International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (I.S.C.D.) held in Beijing last October has stressed to all the participant the value of life teaching to treasure and enjoy life. The first meeting on wellness full of many healt...view more The 8th World Congress of the International Society of Cosmetic Dermatology (I.S.C.D.) held in Beijing last October has stressed to all the participant the value of life teaching to treasure and enjoy life. The first meeting on wellness full of many health care experts coming both from East and West has achieved its object to give clear indications for a better way of living view less
ABOUT THE EFFICACY OF DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS SÖFW/SOFW For several years there has been a steady increase in the range of dietary supplements designed to maintain the health of skin and hair by guaranteeing an adequate supply of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants etc. For the substance category of carotenoids a...view more For several years there has been a steady increase in the range of dietary supplements designed to maintain the health of skin and hair by guaranteeing an adequate supply of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants etc. For the substance category of carotenoids a function as antioxidants in lipophile systems has been established in recent years. view less
ACNE – A CONDITION IN THREE STAGES SÖFW/SOFW Few adolescents are unaffected by skin problems, whether simple shine or acne. Acne is undoubtedly one of the most frustrating skin disorders which, besides its visible signs, can induce certain emotional or psychological issues. 80% of 15-25 year olds ha...view more Few adolescents are unaffected by skin problems, whether simple shine or acne. Acne is undoubtedly one of the most frustrating skin disorders which, besides its visible signs, can induce certain emotional or psychological issues. 80% of 15-25 year olds have skin problems and they represent the main target for purifying cosmetic products. These imperfections are not however the sole preserve of teenagers as 20% of adults suffer from so-called late onset acne. Their problems are caused by the ... view less
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FROM MUSHROOMS AND OTHER FUNGI – FROM TCM TO NEW PRODUCTS IN COSMETICS SÖFW/SOFW In traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), various fungal species are described for different dermatological and dermato-cosmetical applications. The wood-inhabiting fungus Armillariella mellea is used against Xerosis cutis, other fungi like Bovista plumbea o...view more In traditional Chinese medicine (TCM), various fungal species are described for different dermatological and dermato-cosmetical applications. The wood-inhabiting fungus Armillariella mellea is used against Xerosis cutis, other fungi like Bovista plumbea or Podostroma yunnanensis in powder form against wound healing disorders. Auricularia auricula is regarded as a potent agent for the treatment of haemorrhoids. view less
ACTIVE TEXTURES AND EXTRAORDINARY SENSATIONS – INFLUENCED BY NATURE SÖFW/SOFW Today’s consumers’ choice is lead by the sensations a cosmetic product provides on the skin. Textures must be more and more pleasant, comfortable, surprising, fresh… Cosmetic brands made a major effort with textures in order to create products with as muc...view more Today’s consumers’ choice is lead by the sensations a cosmetic product provides on the skin. Textures must be more and more pleasant, comfortable, surprising, fresh… Cosmetic brands made a major effort with textures in order to create products with as much poly-sensorial appeal as possible. view less
ADVANCED ADSORPTION FOR ACTIVES APPLICATION SÖFW/SOFW The increase in skin cancers has heightened public awareness to the damaging effects of the sun and many skin preparations are now available to help protect the skin from UV radiation. The actives employed in these preparations are of two basic types: org...view more The increase in skin cancers has heightened public awareness to the damaging effects of the sun and many skin preparations are now available to help protect the skin from UV radiation. The actives employed in these preparations are of two basic types: organics which can absorb UV radiation of specific wavelengths due to their chemical structure; inorganics which both absorb and scatter UV radiation. view less
AFM BASED SINGLE HAIR INTERACTION MEASUREMENTS SÖFW/SOFW New material development and understanding existing market products requires detailed testing of treated surfaces and thin films. The effects of hair care products like shampoo and conditioner show in properties like combability and haptic perception of h...view more New material development and understanding existing market products requires detailed testing of treated surfaces and thin films. The effects of hair care products like shampoo and conditioner show in properties like combability and haptic perception of hair. Therefore, systematic investigations are carried out in order to improve the understanding and the quality of ingredients. view less
AGEING AND ANTIOXIDANTS SÖFW/SOFW The application of optical methods enables the efficient, non-invasive examination of skin parameters, including the structure of the skin surface. The structure of the skin surface is commonly investigated by determining the skin roughness, which reflect...view more The application of optical methods enables the efficient, non-invasive examination of skin parameters, including the structure of the skin surface. The structure of the skin surface is commonly investigated by determining the skin roughness, which reflects the density and depth of furrows and wrinkles in the skin. Recently, it was also possible to quantitatively and qualitatively detect carotenoid antioxidants non-invasively with Raman spectroscopic measurements. view less
ALKYL POLYGLYCOSIDES – WHERE »GREEN« MEETS PERFORMANCE SÖFW/SOFW Awareness of natural products by consumers has accelerated over the last several years, resulting in continued growth for the overall green market. Consumers are steadily embracing the philosophy of »greenness « in all aspects of their lives, consequently...view more Awareness of natural products by consumers has accelerated over the last several years, resulting in continued growth for the overall green market. Consumers are steadily embracing the philosophy of »greenness « in all aspects of their lives, consequently favoring products that are derived from natural and environmentally sound raw materials. Alkyl polyglycosides represent a solution for manufacturers to effectively meet this demand for mild, environmentally sound ingredients. view less
ALLERGENIC SUBSTANCES IN FRAGRANCES – VALIDATION AND IMPLEMENTATIONS OF THE GC/MSD METHOD SÖFW/SOFW Introduction Following the amendment to the 76/786 cosmetics Directive (amendment VII: Directive 2003/15/CE), since March 11th 2005, it has become mandatory to indicate on the label (among the list of ingredients) the name of the 26 substances.
AMINO ACIDS TO INCREASE DNA REPAIR AFTER UVB IRRADIATION OF RECONSTITUTED HUMAN SKIN SÖFW/SOFW Skin is continuously exposed to attack from environmental aggressors such as solar radiation. UVB induces DNA damage such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) formation, but the natural DNA repairing mechanism slows down with aging, contributing to incre...view more Skin is continuously exposed to attack from environmental aggressors such as solar radiation. UVB induces DNA damage such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) formation, but the natural DNA repairing mechanism slows down with aging, contributing to increased risk of mutation. To accelerate DNA repair, we formulated a complex containing the amino acids acetyl tyrosine and proline (Unirepair T-43). view less
AN ACTIVE INGREDIENT FROM ANOGEISSUS LEIOCARPUS – THE LINK BETWEEN SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT SÖFW/SOFW Dakaline is an extract of a sacred tree of Burkina Faso (Africa), Anogeissus leiocarpus, is a multifunctional anti-aging active ingredient reducing time damages. The leaves, roots and bark are widely used for medical treatments.
AN AMINO ACID BASED SURFACTANT TARGETING SHAMPOO BASED ON A NATURAL CONCEPT SÖFW/SOFW Amino acid derivatives are highly biodegradable and friendly to the environment, since they originate from amino acids which occur naturally in organisms in large quantities. A recently developed surfactant for shampoo derived from one of amino acids, L-A...view more Amino acid derivatives are highly biodegradable and friendly to the environment, since they originate from amino acids which occur naturally in organisms in large quantities. A recently developed surfactant for shampoo derived from one of amino acids, L-Alanine. Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate (ACS) is based on L-Alanine that is found in large quantities in collagen, exhibited characteristics that are favorable as a shampoo component. view less
AN INNOVATIVE SERUM TO PROMOTE HAIR GROWTH SÖFW/SOFW As part of the normal hair-growth cycle each of us looses hair. Our body then replaces it with some new strands as part of the many renewal processes in our body systems. As we all age, the regrowth of new hair gradually slows down. This observable fact i...view more As part of the normal hair-growth cycle each of us looses hair. Our body then replaces it with some new strands as part of the many renewal processes in our body systems. As we all age, the regrowth of new hair gradually slows down. This observable fact is more evident in men than women, whose male pattern baldness is genetically determined and can begin as early as age 20. For women, hair normally thins after age 50, and considerable hair loss before that age is rare even though possible. view less
AN IRON COMPLEX FOR COLLAGEN REGENERATION SÖFW/SOFW Trace elements play a fundamental physiological role in the chemistry of living matter, to the point where an organism cannot develop its life cycle without them. Today, we are rediscovering the properties of these essential molecules, while applying our ...view more Trace elements play a fundamental physiological role in the chemistry of living matter, to the point where an organism cannot develop its life cycle without them. Today, we are rediscovering the properties of these essential molecules, while applying our knowledge of the skin to identify the mechanisms through which certain metals act. view less
ANTI-AGEING SKIN CARE FOR CUTANEOUS... SÖFW/SOFW Ultraviolet (UV) exposure strongly influences skin aging (so-called photoaging). Sun-exposed skin shows not only superficial changes, such as wrinkles and sagging, but also many internal changes in the epidermis and dermis.
ANTI-AGING STATUS OF SKIN CHARACTERIZED BY THE SKIN ANTIOXIDATIVE PROTECTION SAP – EFFICAC SÖFW/SOFW Aging of skin is strongly correlated to the existence of free radicals/ROS, which are generated by external and internal stress factors. The skin, as a link between the exterior and interior milieu of human body is exposed eminently to the oxidative stres...view more Aging of skin is strongly correlated to the existence of free radicals/ROS, which are generated by external and internal stress factors. The skin, as a link between the exterior and interior milieu of human body is exposed eminently to the oxidative stress of both sides. Topical and systemic applied antioxidants increase or balance the Skin Antioxidative Protection SAP. view less
ANTI-CELLULITE PRODUCTS ATTUNED TO SKIN TYPE SÖFW/SOFW Just about every woman knows about unsightly bumps on the thighs and behind. The phenomenon of cellulite is given many names in literature (Adiposis edematosa, Dermopanniculosis deformans, Gynoid lopodystrophy, nodular liposclerosis, Status protrusus cuti...view more Just about every woman knows about unsightly bumps on the thighs and behind. The phenomenon of cellulite is given many names in literature (Adiposis edematosa, Dermopanniculosis deformans, Gynoid lopodystrophy, nodular liposclerosis, Status protrusus cutis), which already make it clear that there are many factors involved in the appearance of cellulite (1). view less
ANTIAGING EFFECT WITH COSMOTROPIC SUBSTANCES SÖFW/SOFW Water is one of the most important and limiting factors for plants, animals and humans. The human being consists of 60-65% water and loses daily up to several liters through the skin. The regulation of water content is therefore very significant. Plants e...view more Water is one of the most important and limiting factors for plants, animals and humans. The human being consists of 60-65% water and loses daily up to several liters through the skin. The regulation of water content is therefore very significant. Plants especially have developed fascinating physiological and structural strategies to minimize water loss and survive periods of dryness. The so called resurrection plants are examples of such survival artists. These plants have the ability to dry.. view less
ANTIMICROBIAL ADDITIVES FOR COSMETIC FORMULATIONS SÖFW/SOFW Skin flora consists of staphylococci, propioni bacteria and coryne bacteria but undesirable fungi are also commonly present on skin. Under special circumstances these microbes may cause different cosmetic problems. Cosmetics based on a special combination...view more Skin flora consists of staphylococci, propioni bacteria and coryne bacteria but undesirable fungi are also commonly present on skin. Under special circumstances these microbes may cause different cosmetic problems. Cosmetics based on a special combination of different structured agents are able to prevent or to successfully treat the undesired effects, like smell, dandruff, blemishes and athlete's foot. view less
ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY OF SOME NATURAL ANTIOXIDANTS IN LIPIDS AT AMBIENT TEMPERATURE SÖFW/SOFW The antioxidative properties of 0.02% α-tocopherol, quercetin, morin, caffeic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, thymol and carvacrol were studied during the autoxidation of triacylglycerols of lard (TGL) and triacylglycerols of sunflower oil (TGSO) at room...view more The antioxidative properties of 0.02% α-tocopherol, quercetin, morin, caffeic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, thymol and carvacrol were studied during the autoxidation of triacylglycerols of lard (TGL) and triacylglycerols of sunflower oil (TGSO) at room temperature. The stabilization factor (F) as a measure of effectiveness, the oxidation rate ratio (ORR) as a measure of strength, and activity (A) which combines the above two factors, were determined. view less
ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY, MECHANISM OF ACTION OF SOME PHENOLIC ACIDS IN TRIACYLGLYCEROLS ... SÖFW/SOFW The autoxidation kinetics of triacylglycerols of soybean oil (TGSBO) in the presence of four different concentrations (0.02- 0.20%; 0.9-13.0x10-3M) of ferulic, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic, sinapic and caffeic acids, at 100°C was studied. The stabilization factor...view more The autoxidation kinetics of triacylglycerols of soybean oil (TGSBO) in the presence of four different concentrations (0.02- 0.20%; 0.9-13.0x10-3M) of ferulic, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic, sinapic and caffeic acids, at 100°C was studied. The stabilization factor (F) as a measure of effectiveness, the oxidation rate ratio (ORR) as a measure of strength, and the activity (A) which combines the above two factors were determined. The effectiveness, the strength and the activity of the phenolic acids... view less
ANTIOXIDANTS AGAINST OXIDATIVE SKIN STRESS SÖFW/SOFW UVA und UVB-radiation, ozone, chemical oxidants and special microbes may induce the formation of reactive oxygen species and of other radicals. In order to prevent that these radicals may overwhelm the natural network of skin it is usefull to reinforce th...view more UVA und UVB-radiation, ozone, chemical oxidants and special microbes may induce the formation of reactive oxygen species and of other radicals. In order to prevent that these radicals may overwhelm the natural network of skin it is usefull to reinforce the antioxidants of the network (vitamin, vitamin C, ubiquinone, glutathion and enzymes) by suitable topical applied antioxidants. view less
ANTIOXIDATIVE PENETRATION EFFICACY OF LIPOSOMALLY ENCAPSULATED COENZYME Q10 SÖFW/SOFW In cosmetics anti-ageing products are still of predominant significance. Due to the fact that oxidative stress plays a central role in the ageing process – chronological ageing and particularly photoageing – active ingredients which are effectively counte...view more In cosmetics anti-ageing products are still of predominant significance. Due to the fact that oxidative stress plays a central role in the ageing process – chronological ageing and particularly photoageing – active ingredients which are effectively counteracting oxidative stress phenomena are of special interest for the cosmetic market. view less
APPLICATION OF A SKIN-IDENTICAL LIPID CONCENTRATE FOR ENHANCED SKIN MOISTURIZATION AND... SÖFW/SOFW The skin is our body’s covering, acting as a protector against physical, chemical and biological attack (1). To perform its protective task, the skin must have a resistant barrier. This barrier is provided by the »horny layer« stratum corneum (SC), the ou...view more The skin is our body’s covering, acting as a protector against physical, chemical and biological attack (1). To perform its protective task, the skin must have a resistant barrier. This barrier is provided by the »horny layer« stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis. The stratum corneum consists of anuclear flattened cells, the corneocytes, imbedded in a lipid mixture consisting mainly of a lamellar structure of ceramides... view less
APPLICATION OF PFAFFIA SP., PTYCHOPETALUM OLACOIDES AND LILIUM CANDIDUM ASSOCIATED EXTRACT SÖFW/SOFW Periorbital disorders (POD), a cosmetic concern for a large number of individuals, are characterized by an alteration in the color and shape of eyelids, manifested by hyperpigmentation (»dark circles«) and puffiness, as a result of fat and fluid accumulat...view more Periorbital disorders (POD), a cosmetic concern for a large number of individuals, are characterized by an alteration in the color and shape of eyelids, manifested by hyperpigmentation (»dark circles«) and puffiness, as a result of fat and fluid accumulation. view less
ARGANIA SPINOSA – RESEARCH FOR NEW COSMETIC ACTIVE INGREDIENTS SÖFW/SOFW Not only should foreign cultures teach us traditional cosmetic uses; they should also reap the benefit of any economical development, directly for their own standard of living as well as via the maintenance of the local biotope. Argania spinosa is an ende...view more Not only should foreign cultures teach us traditional cosmetic uses; they should also reap the benefit of any economical development, directly for their own standard of living as well as via the maintenance of the local biotope. Argania spinosa is an endemic tree of Morocco. It is the only region in the world where this tree is growing. For centuries, it has been a source of income for the local populations. Today, the rationalization of the exploitation is vital for the survival ... view less
Abyssinian Oil Pigment Dispersion Studies Elementis Specialties Titanium Dioxide is the world’s most widely utilised white pigment. It’s high refractive index, ease of dispensability and photochemical stability are unique. For this reason it is used to impart opacity and whiteness to an enormous variety of products in...view more Titanium Dioxide is the world’s most widely utilised white pigment. It’s high refractive index, ease of dispensability and photochemical stability are unique. For this reason it is used to impart opacity and whiteness to an enormous variety of products including paints, plastics, inks, paper, cosmetics, foodstuffs and pharmaceuticals. view less
An Introduction to Active Delivery Technologies George Deckner Active delivery technologies are ingredients or formulation approaches that improve stability and efficacy or reduce active irritation for consumers in a meaningful way. George Deckner describes 8 development principles, 9 active delivery system objective...view more Active delivery technologies are ingredients or formulation approaches that improve stability and efficacy or reduce active irritation for consumers in a meaningful way. George Deckner describes 8 development principles, 9 active delivery system objectives and 10 types of delivery technologies. view less
Ancient seaweed cures find new life in modern algae formulations George Deckner Seaweeds are typically 20 to 50% dry weight. Minerals commonly found in seaweeds include potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, copper, chloride, sulfur, phosphorous, vanadium, cobalt, manganese, selenium, bromine, iodine, arsenic, iron and fluorine...view more Seaweeds are typically 20 to 50% dry weight. Minerals commonly found in seaweeds include potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, copper, chloride, sulfur, phosphorous, vanadium, cobalt, manganese, selenium, bromine, iodine, arsenic, iron and fluorine. Many seaweeds contain anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial actives and may have been used for thousands of years to treat various skin disorders. How are seaweed and algae being used in modern skincare and cosmetics formulations and what technologies are available? Read on to find out. view less
Antimicrobial Potentiators George Deckner Antimicrobial potentiators work synergistically with known preservatives to deliver this benefit, among others. In this week’s exclusive article, George Deckner outlines the four classes of potentiators, as well as product resources. The four classes are ...view more Antimicrobial potentiators work synergistically with known preservatives to deliver this benefit, among others. In this week’s exclusive article, George Deckner outlines the four classes of potentiators, as well as product resources. The four classes are chelators, polyols/diols, ethers and esters view less
Antioxidants for the Stabilization of Sunscreen GEMATRIA TEST LAB Different sunscreen formulations have been investigated regarding their radical generation under UV radiation. Organic and inoraganic UV-filter molecules can generate free radicals during UV-radiation. Whereas organic UV-filters are marked by their degrad...view more Different sunscreen formulations have been investigated regarding their radical generation under UV radiation. Organic and inoraganic UV-filter molecules can generate free radicals during UV-radiation. Whereas organic UV-filters are marked by their degradation under UV-light, inorganic filters are marked by their photocatalytic reactions. The generation of free radicals inside a cosmetic formulation leads to the de-stabilization of the entire cosmetic preparation. Antioxidants can help to overcome this problem, neutralizing the UV- induced free radicals. Polyphenolic compounds, as Green tea extracts, are efficient radical quenchers. The amount of radicals generated with and without the addition of antioxidants can be quantified by Electron Spin Resonance (ESR) spectroscopy and is expressed by the Radical Generationg Factor (RGF) view less
Antioxidants: Powerful Skin Care Actives & Stabilizers George Deckner Antioxidants function by slowing or preventing the oxidation of the molecules by donating hydrogen to prevent free radical formation or by neutralizing existing ones. Industry expert, George Deckner, discusses the important of antioxidants in skin care fo...view more Antioxidants function by slowing or preventing the oxidation of the molecules by donating hydrogen to prevent free radical formation or by neutralizing existing ones. Industry expert, George Deckner, discusses the important of antioxidants in skin care formulations by explaining how they work, autoxidation, oxidative stress and skin aging and product stabilization. view less
Application of Membrimate™ in Separation Membrane-----FAQ Boai NKY Pharmaceuticals Ltd. This is an article of frequently asked questions about MembriMate™.
Approaches to Skin and Hair Moisturizing – Yesterday and Today Priscilla Taylor Expert author, Priscilla Taylor, discusses skin and hair care benefits of various moisturizing agents. Learn about historical accounts including the Prickly Pear Cactus, and current trends with coconut oil, emu oil, tea tree oil and more.
Articles Skin Test Institute This is a collection of articles for information and studies by the Skin Test Institute.
Ask the Expert: Are there any good all natural options to thicken water-based formulations? George Deckner Personal care industry expert George Deckner provides guidance on choosing an all natural thickener for your water-based formulation. Article includes information on formulation properties, including charge compatibility (anionic, cationic, or nonionic), ...view more Personal care industry expert George Deckner provides guidance on choosing an all natural thickener for your water-based formulation. Article includes information on formulation properties, including charge compatibility (anionic, cationic, or nonionic), PH, clarity, electrolyte tolerance, and skin feel; types of aqueous-based thickeners; and product / supplier recommendations. view less
Ask the Expert: How can I reduce the oily feel of my moisturizer formulation? George Deckner Experienced personal care formulator George Deckner tackles a common issue that formulators face in the laboratory: reducing the oily feel of a moisturizer formulation. Article includes tactics and product recommendations for light/medium emollients, cush...view more Experienced personal care formulator George Deckner tackles a common issue that formulators face in the laboratory: reducing the oily feel of a moisturizer formulation. Article includes tactics and product recommendations for light/medium emollients, cushion emollients and other oil absorbers. view less
Ask the Expert: I'm having problems solubilizing avobenzone & oxybenzone in the oil phase of my emulsion. George Deckner Personal care expert George Deckner explains why formulators might have problems with solubilizing avobenzone and oxybenzone in the oil phase of an emulsion. He provides advice for solutions, as well as product resources.
Ask the Expert: My water-in-oil emulsion is unstable. What can I do? George Deckner George Deckner, a 40+ year veteran personal care formulator provides help with a common issue that technicians face in the laboratory -- instability in water-in-oil emulsions. George's advice for correcting this problem, including increasing the dispersed...view more George Deckner, a 40+ year veteran personal care formulator provides help with a common issue that technicians face in the laboratory -- instability in water-in-oil emulsions. George's advice for correcting this problem, including increasing the dispersed water phase, using combinations of polymeric and non-polymeric emulsifiers, and using emulsifiers, as well as product resources are yours in this exclusive article. view less
Ask the Expert: What's your advice for thickening an oil-in-water emulsion? George Deckner Expert formulator George Deckner gives his advice for thickening an oil-in-water emulsion. According to Deckner, the problems usually stem from the presence of electrolytes in your formulation. Article includes recommendations for dealing with this issue,...view more Expert formulator George Deckner gives his advice for thickening an oil-in-water emulsion. According to Deckner, the problems usually stem from the presence of electrolytes in your formulation. Article includes recommendations for dealing with this issue, as well as product solutions. view less
Avobenzone: A Globally Approved UVA Absorber George Deckner Industry expert, George Deckner, discusses why Avobenzone is the most important UVA absorber that has been globally approved. Deckner covers chelating agents, recommended photo stabilizers, recommended non sunscreen solvents and suppliers.